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Master Class 1: Lesson 11 - Tidying Up and Finishing Off; Clanrat: Start to Finish
Topic Started: 28th September 2013 - 07:20 AM (1,393 Views)
hannanibal
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The bread that satisfies all hunger... the peanut that reverses time...
Master Class 1
Clanrat: Start to Finish
with Hannanibal

Lesson Eleven
Tidying Up and Finishing Off

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Clanrat model as it was left at the end of the previous lesson.


INTRODUCTION
In this lesson we will be tidying up any mistakes and finishes off any areas that you think need an extra bit of attention. Apart from a wash on the tail, there will be no exact instructions on what must be tidied up. Use your judgement to decide if an area needs a little more work.

MATERIALS NEEDED
  • Your plastic Clanrat model, completed to the stage shown above
  • A Size 1 or Standard Brush, a Small Drybrush and a Fine Detail Brush.
  • 2 water jars filled with clean, cold water. One for metallic paint and one for normal paint.
  • A palette
  • A sheet of kitchen roll/paper towel. Do not use toilet roll, as it will cause fibres to adhere to the brush.
  • A brightly lit painting area. Either painting on a table near a window, or using a craft lamp with a daylight bulb is ideal.
  • A rag or paper towels for mopping up spillages
  • Tweezers for removing dust and hairs that may adhere to the miniature
  • A hair-dryer, on a low setting for both blow and heat. (optional)
  • Paints: If you touch-up or highlight the same areas that I'm doing, you'll need the following paints. If you're doing other bits, you might need different paints. As usual, check for paint equivalents as discussed in the Paints & Materials List thread
          Blood Red (GW/Citadel Colour - Discontinued)
          Chaos Black (GW/Citadel Colour - Discontinued)
          Fortress Grey (GW/Citadel Colour - Discontinued)
          Dead White (Vallejo Game Color)
          Bonewhite (Vallejo Game Color)
          Pale Flesh (Vallejo Game Color)
          Elf Skintone (Vallejo Game Color)
          Chainmail (Vallejo Game Color)
          Dark Tone ink (Army Painter Warpaint)
          Strong Tone ink (Army Painter Warpaint)
          Glaze Medium
          Additional paints as required

TIDYING UP AND FINISHING OFF
This lesson will be a short one, but it is important. As well as completing a few minor finishes, we will be redefining highlights where needed, and adding shade into recesses (also if needed). These little touches will really set the miniature off, and take it up a level. I have added this lesson before the object source lighting (OSL) lesson, as I want you all to see what your completed miniature will look like before you decide whether or not you want to attempt the very difficult—and potentially miniature-ruining—OSL stage in the next lesson.
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GLAZING THE TAIL
The first thing everybody must do is to glaze the tail with Blood Red. Use the techniques from last lesson, and glaze the tail from base to tip. You may need to hold the model upside down while your glazes are being applied and while they are drying. I chose to add a very light glaze, just to hint at a colour change, but you must use your own judgement to decide when to stop glazing.

DRYBRUSHING THE WOOD
If your model has a wood grain texture on a shield (which should be at a "Calthan Brown + a wash of Dark Tone ink" stage), then very, very lightly drybrush the wood with Bonewhite. To drybrush, load up your drybrush's tip with paint, and lightly scrub most of the paint off onto a piece of kitchen roll/paper towel. When no paint appears on the kitchen roll, brush the very tip lightly over the wood grain, going across the grains in order to pick out the detail. Only two or three, small, light strokes will be all that's needed. If the area of wood grain showing is too small to drybrush without hitting other areas, don't bother drybrushing it. The highlights are very subtle anyway, and wouldn't look right on a small, enclosed area.
If your miniature has a spear shaft don't do anything to it. Simply leave it at the Calthan Brown+ a wash of Dark Tone ink stage.

FINISHING THE METAL STUDS
If your miniature has studs, use a Fine Detail brush to dot each one with Dark Tone ink. Don't flood the area, but make sure that the ink surrounds the stud, providing a circle of neat shading around the base of each. If you flood the area or go overboard, tidy up your mistake immediately. If you've made a mistake and there's too much ink or ink in the wrong place, load up your brush with water and flood the area, brushing away the ink before it dries. Then use a piece of kitchen roll to absorb the water. Make sure that the area is completely dry before trying again.

Once the studs are dry, use a Fine Detail brush to pick out each stud with Chainmail. Use the flat of your brush to strike the tip of each stud. This will be easier than using the tip to pick them out.

DEFINING THE FACE
In this stage, I made the face sharper by adding 2 wrinkles underneath the eyes and a small flick of a highlight down the bridge of the nose, using a thin mix of 1:1 Pale Flesh and Elf Skintone.

DEFINING THE FUR
I added Chaos Black into the grooves of the hair to make the individual hairs stand out. I also re-highlighted some of the tips with Fortress Grey.

DEFINING THE BANDAGES
You my want to add shading into the join between the bandages and flesh using Strong Tone ink. If you do this, make sure to use a fine detail brush and be extremely sparing. Only paint into the extreme join of both flesh and bandage, and allow one thin layer to dry before deciding whether to apply another, as too much shading will look unnatural.

You may want to add shading in between the bandages themselves. Use Dark Tone ink with a fine detail brush, and be sparing.

You may want to add a small highlight on the bandages. Use VGC Dead White, and touch on only the most extreme highlights.

HIGHLIGHTING TEETH AND CLAWS
You may want to add a small highlight on the teeth and claws. Use VGC Dead White, highlighting the most extreme areas.

ADDITIONAL TOUCH-UPS
There may be other areas you wish to tidy up and redefine that I have missed. If this is the case, just ask what needs doing in this thread, and I will get back to you as soon as possible.

Once you are satisfied with your miniature, paint the entire base with Chaos Black.

PHOTOGRAPHY
Once the miniature is dry, take a good close-up picture of your model, and upload it here for comments and criticism by 11 October 2013. I will need the pictures to be clear and bright so that I can see how tidy your brushwork is. Store the model in a drawer or box away from sunlight and dust.

LESSON COMPLETED BY
Ratt Baron
Jona
Edited by hannanibal, 1st November 2013 - 09:25 AM.
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Ratt Baron
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lesson finished teach
photos tommorrow when i get some natural lighting
nice lesson ,it really crisps up the image :bow:

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hannanibal
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The bread that satisfies all hunger... the peanut that reverses time...
A short poem in response to Ratt Baron:

Great
Mate
Can't
Wait.
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Ratt Baron
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A little poem for teach

2,4,6,8,who do we appreciate hannaibal

these are my finished photos

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hannanibal
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The bread that satisfies all hunger... the peanut that reverses time...
Great work Ratt Bazza. Are you going to attempt the OSL lesson?

As far as overall criticism goes you need to work on thinning your paints to a better consistency. The brown and black cloth highlights would be a little less harsh if the paint was thinner and maybe the shading around the studs could have been more subtle but, don't be put off. It's painted to what I would call a high standard and your brush skill has greatly improved. Just wait until the base is done and this miniature will look epic.

BTW:The only thing to help you get better at thinning paint is practice (which I'm sure you'll have enough of).

Really well done mate.



As a side note what does everybody think about completing the base next lesson and leaving the OSL stage until the very last? That way you can really see how your miniature looks before committing yourself to the very tricky (and potentially miniature-ruining) lesson.
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Ratt Baron
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All points taken on board these are pro blems I'm only too familiar with. I definitely need to slow down and stop rushing Into my work. Im finding it really hard to get the right thinning erring for more thickness than thinning every time SO more practice is on the cards and more time not rushing g expecting instant results
Thanks for your help and constructive feedback on all fronts

Definitely base first so I can see the full effect before I cover it in OSL paint. I'm really worried about this lesson.
Edited by Ratt Baron, 9th October 2013 - 11:59 AM.

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hannanibal
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The bread that satisfies all hunger... the peanut that reverses time...
OK. I'm bringing the base lesson forward.

I would advise practising OSL relentlessly before trying it out on your model too.
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Jona
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I might be a little late on this one, but I approve of doing the base first. I'll try to catch up again as soon as I can.
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hannanibal
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The bread that satisfies all hunger... the peanut that reverses time...
No probs J.
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Jona
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I managed to sneak in an hour of painting this morning, which was just enough to finish this lesson as well.
It's a quite dark day, so the pictures aren't that good.
All in all, I'm quite happy with the result. It's nowhere near your own model, but already far beyond anything I've done before. I'm starting to getting the hang of glazing (the tail is much better than the face, I think), and some of the blending is quite good as well (the skin). I'm really looking forward to the next two steps, especially the source lighting. :)

Thank you very much for these amazing lessons. It's a shame so few people try at, as it doesn't take that long, but you learn so much.

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Left side
Back
Right side
Front
Edited by Jona, 29th October 2013 - 08:34 AM.
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hannanibal
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The bread that satisfies all hunger... the peanut that reverses time...
I think that looks amazing. The blending on the forearm, the tail, the hair's highlights and the smooth blacks are especially well done. I'd say, all-in-all, it's better than mine. The only thing that could do with some practice is the metallic edge highlight but that's just a case of making the paint thin enough so it doesn't streak and pull.
Seriously well done Jona.
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