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Master Class 1: Lesson 6 - Brown Cloth; Clanrat: Start to Finish
Topic Started: 13th July 2013 - 07:37 AM (549 Views)
hannanibal
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The bread that satisfies all hunger... the peanut that reverses time...
Master Class 1
Clanrat: Start to Finish
with Hannanibal

Lesson Six
Highlighting the Brown Cloth

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Clanrat model as it was left at the end of the previous lesson.


INTRODUCTION
In this lesson, we will be highlighting the brown cloth by blending and using some of the techniques from last lesson. We will be using Glaze Medium to make our blending smooth and transparent.
MATERIALS NEEDED
  • Your plastic Clanrat model, completed to the stage shown above
  • A Size 1 or Standard Brush
  • A water jar filled with clean, cold water.
  • A palette
  • A sheet of kitchen roll/paper towel. Do not use toilet roll, as it will cause fibres to adhere to the brush.
  • A brightly lit painting area. Either painting on a table near a window, or using a craft lamp with a daylight bulb is ideal.
  • A rag or paper towels for mopping up spillages
  • Tweezers for removing dust and hairs that may adhere to the miniature
  • Paints: As listed, or equivalents as discussed in the Paints & Materials List thread
          GW/Citadel Foundation: Calthan Brown (discontinued)
          Vallejo Game Color Dead White (pure white, same as old GW/Citadel Skull White)
          Glaze Medium
PAINTING CLOTH
Painting the cloth will follow the same basic principles as painting the flesh. Using glaze medium to help the blending, we will first thin the paint to usable consistency, then make an initial mix and gradually add more and more white to it for each layer of the highlights, painting the raised areas and leaving the recesses dark.

CREATING HIGHLIGHTS ON FLAT CLOTH
Sometimes, draped cloth, such as the loincloth in the Clanrat used here, will have no raised areas but will require highlighting. In this case, highlight the whole area, but focus the highlights toward the bottom of the cloth, starting near the top and brushing downward towards the bottom.

CLOTH: LAYER ONE
Make up your initial mix of Calthan Brown and a tiny dot of Dead White. The initial colour should be hardly distinguishable from pure Calthan Brown. Make up more than you think you'll need, and add water and glaze medium as in the last lesson. Load up your brush, wipe off the excess onto kitchen roll, and apply the first layer of highlights. Remember to focus highlights near the bottom of a drape and that the last place your brush touches will have the strongest colour.

Allow to dry before applying the next layer.
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CLOTH: LAYER TWO
Add a dot more white to the mix and highlight again. Remember to keep some of the last layer showing through. Allow to dry before applying the next layer.
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CLOTH: LAYER THREE
Add a dot more white to the mix and highlight again. Remember to keep some of the last layer showing through. If you need to add more water, then do so. Allow to dry before applying the next layer.
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CLOTH: LAYER FOUR
Add a dot more white to the mix and highlight again. Remember to keep some of the last layer showing through. You must be very sparing in your highlights now. Allow to dry before applying the next layer.
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CLOTH: LAYER FIVE
Add a dot more white to the mix and highlight again. Remember to keep some of the last layer showing through.

If your highlight is not bright enough at this stage, simply keep adding white to the mix in tiny amounts and highlighting until satisfied. Always allow the last layer to dry before deciding whether to add more highlights, as paint changes colour when dry.
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PHOTOGRAPHY
Once the miniature is dry, take a good close-up picture of your model, and upload it here for comments and criticism by 26 July 2013. I will need the pictures to be clear and bright so that I can see how tidy your brushwork is. Store the model in a drawer or box away from sunlight and dust.

LESSON COMPLETED BY
Ratt Baron
Jona
Furryblueelf
Edited by hannanibal, 26th July 2013 - 10:28 AM.
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Ratt Baron
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Well it was toooooooo hot to do much today so a good chance to crack on
I felt this wasn`t so bad as the skin blending but i did make a few mistakes with overloading my brush on layer 3 .It filled in some of the recesses on the back folds so I had to make some of the first colour up again and carefully added some darker lines into the folds .It is noticable but hopefully the model is OK

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and I will redo the studs on the front if your happy with it so far (I didn`t want to do it if I needed any rework!)

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hannanibal
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The bread that satisfies all hunger... the peanut that reverses time...
Looks very good. Nice and smooth but I'd add a few more highlights, especially near the bottom of the draping cloth on either side.

Don't worry about the studs, There will be a tidy up stage near the end and it will cover all the little odds and ends like studs and stuff.

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Ratt Baron
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Luckily i hadn`t washed my mixing bowl so it was easy to mix the correct highlight phew :wacko:

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I hope this is OK

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hannanibal
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The bread that satisfies all hunger... the peanut that reverses time...
Not bad, not bad at all. The gradients could be a bit smoother though. It could be any number of things that make the colour gradient too sharp such as not thinning the paint with water enough, too much paint on the brush and, the main reason, adding too much highlight colour to the mix.
All in all though that's a solid effort especially for a first go.
Well done mate.
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Thanks for the feedback. I think the problem was I found it very hard to leave a bit of the last shade exposed(ESP on the top section) which has resulted in the more pronounced colour shift I think I watered it down enough but still put too much paint on the model
I'll try and get out of the habit of slapping it on and will try going the opposite way and try to put too little on and try a more gradual blend. By the time I get to 20 I'm hoping to have it sorted!!

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Jona
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Back on track!
Same comment regarding the colours, I had to mix up more or less similar ones, so let me know if they suffice.
I found this step to be much harder than the previous one. It may be because that stupid spear and the shield severely limited the angles I could approach the cloth at, but I found that large area very hard to do. Also, those metal studs were in my way badly, so I'll have to repaint those later. I'm much more pleased with the backside, lots of folds in the clothing giving a lot of guidance for the highlighting. When starting I think I had too much glaze medium in it or something, because the paint behaved rather weird. The later layers fixed that, though.
I must also say I'm growing more and more impressed with that Winsor and Newton brush you recommended. This being the first model I paint completely with it, it really does seem to paint for you. A great investment for anyone, I'd say.

I hope the other original participants are catching up later, and perhaps even some other could jump in (I'd have thought Kimzi would have since returning ^_^ ). I think it may prove a huge improvement to anyone's painting.

Anyway, here are the pictures:

Left side
Back
Right side

Additional angle
Weird additional angle
Attempts at interclannal cooperation - a Skaven army log
Puppet Wars Unstitched
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Furryblueelf
Clanrat
Attached pictures of homework. I am not that happy with these at all (and the pictures as well). I feel I went far too light in the end but am not sure how to smooth it out, so thought better just hand it in.

One question for an expert Hannanibal, how do you deal with painting into hard to reach places? I find this is one of my biggest nightmares. I try my best to get into these places but am always shakey and then even worry if its needed because no one else will really see.

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hannanibal
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The bread that satisfies all hunger... the peanut that reverses time...
@ Jona. Looks pretty damn good to me. The studs are a bugger. I tend to completely ignore them and do them at the end. If the lessons finish and I've forgotten to mention the studs remind me on (mine doesn't have them).
Anyway, really well done for catching up and painting to such a high standard.

@Furryblueelf. Nice, tidy brushwork, I'd go a bit lighter though just to make it pop because at the minute it looks mid-tone rather than highlight but that may be the picture so use your judgement.
When painting in hard to reach places I tend to not paint highlights into the extreme recess and always start in the recess and pull the brush out leaving a nice, straight, smooth line. If you find yourself shaking take a 5 minute breather and come back. Brace your elbows on your knees or the table and brace your wrists against each other.
It's just something that practice will remedy and you won't even think about it.

Thanks everybody. All of these are looking so good.
Edited by hannanibal, 26th July 2013 - 10:30 AM.
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