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| Master Class 1: Lesson 5 - Blending the Flesh Tones; Clanrat: Start To Finish | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: 29th June 2013 - 02:58 PM (1,131 Views) | |
| hannanibal | 29th June 2013 - 02:58 PM Post #1 |
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The bread that satisfies all hunger... the peanut that reverses time...
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Master Class 1 Clanrat: Start to Finish with Hannanibal Lesson Five Blending the Flesh Tones ![]() Clanrat model as it was left at the end of the previous lesson. INTRODUCTION In this lesson, we will be highlighting the flesh using a technique called blending. We will be using Glaze Medium to make our blending smooth and transparent. MATERIALS NEEDED
Blending paints is a way to get your layers of paint to merge seamlessly together, from dark in the recesses to light on the raised edges. It's a little tricky to get the hang of blending, but once learned, it will be simple. Don't be too daunted by it. All that blending requires is patience and a good eye for colour. You will start by mixing up a first colour with some glaze medium and water, and then adding your successive highlights to the mix in tiny amounts. You use a tiny dot of paint on the tip of your brush, and feather it to spread the colour out. GLAZE MEDIUM Glaze medium is used to make the paint more transparent and leave a smoother finish, allowing your blending to look seamless. Glaze medium does not thin the paint, so you will still need to thin the paint with water to make it "travel" better. Finding the right balance of paint to glaze medium to water is something that you will have to learn through experimentation, though I will try to go into as much detail as I can. It's a delicate balance. Too much glaze medium in the mix can leave your paint sticky and useless. Too little glaze medium and too much water will cause your paint to separate into particles, leaving unsightly tide-marks. FEATHERING YOUR LAYERS Before I go into the paint consistency and stages of painting, I will explain how I apply my layers. After a workable consistency of paint has been made up (more on this later), I load up my brush and wipe off most of the paint, leaving just a dot on the tip. I then place that dot on the edge of the area I wish to paint and move it in one direction toward the area I wish to have the strongest colour. For instance, when I paint a sphere and want to highlight the centre, I start on the edge and work the paint toward the centre. When painting a model's nose, I start at the bridge of the nose and work down towards the tip. As long as you remember the following rule, you won't go far wrong: The last area that your brush touches will have the strongest colour. Think about your highlights before you place them. Think about where the strongest areas of colour would be and then highlight towards these parts. In this technique, it is important to allow your layers to dry a bit before applying the next layer, since semi-liquid paint may "tear" and leave an unsightly darker patch on the model. ACHIEVING THE RIGHT RATIO OF PAINT TO GLAZE MEDIUM TO WATER This is undoubtedly the trickiest part of blending for me, and will probably be the hardest to explain. The ratio of paint:medium to water varies depending on the effect you wish to achieve and the quality and type of paints you are using. For blending these layers (and this is only a general suggestion), use 1:1:3 of paint:glaze medium:water. You may need more water, you may need less. You might even need less medium (I doubt very much you would need more), but the only way to know is for you to try it for yourself and practice. For these stages, you want paint which is free-flowing but not runny, and is slightly transparent. ALTERING YOUR PAINT MIXTURE TO CREATE HIGHLIGHTS You should make up an initial mix, and add a little of the lighter colour to it for each layer to create successively lighter highlights. By doing this, you won't have to make up a new mix for each layer, which would not only be wasteful but also probably not as good, since it would be very difficult to mix the correct strength of highlight. Since you will be using this initial mix throughout, adding to it at each stage, it is best to make up more of it than you think you will need, so that you don't risk either having the paint dry out prematurely, or running out of paint because you don't have enough. The glaze medium will help slow the drying process. As you add more paint to the initial mix, you will probably also need to add more water to keep the ratios equal. You might need to add more glaze medium as well, but only if you think it's necessary. Don't overboard with the glaze medium. SKIN: LAYER ONE Make up your initial mix. Remember to make more than you think you will need. The initial mix is 3 parts Elf Skintone to 1 part Royal Purple. Add glaze medium and water to make a useable consistency. Apply the first layer to the raised areas. Remember to use only a tiny amount of paint on your brush, working it toward the areas you want to be brightest, and trying to feather the paint's edge out. Don't go overboard. Remember to have some of the previous layer showing through, especially in the recesses. Leave the model to dry before applying the next layer. ![]() SKIN: LAYER TWO Add a dot of Elf Skintone to the mix. A "dot" is an abstract amount. You want to lighten the colour of the paint by only by a very small amount so that it's hardly noticeable. Apply in the same way as before, making sure to keep some of the last layer showing at the edges. Leave the model to dry before applying the next layer. ![]() SKIN: LAYER THREE Add another dot of Elf Skintone to the mix and apply in the same way as before. Really begin to define the musculature and wrinkles of the model now. Leave the model to dry before applying the next layer. ![]() SKIN: LAYER FOUR Add a dot of Pale Flesh to the mix. You may need to add some more water and/or medium by now to keep your mix workable. Apply in the same way as before, becoming very selective and sparing in your highlights. Leave the model to dry before applying the next layer. ![]() SKIN: LAYER FIVE Add another dot of Pale Flesh to the mix. Apply in the same way as before, becoming even more selective and sparing in your highlights. Leave the model to dry before applying the next layer. ![]() SKIN: LAYER SIX Add another dot of Pale Flesh to the mix, and highlight only the extreme edges of the face, such as nose tip, brow, ear tips, lip, and wrinkles. Also, add sharp highlights on the knuckles, kneecap and the toes. If any other skin area needs a small, sharp highlight (possibly on the arm or leg), then add it, but only on the uppermost raised edges. A quick tiny flick of the brush will be sufficient. You may wish to use a few layers here to make those highlights pop. ![]() PHOTOGRAPHY Once the miniature is dry, take a good close-up picture of the model, and upload it here for comments and criticism by 12 July 2013. I will need the pictures to be clear and bright so that I can see how tidy your brushwork is. Store the model in a drawer away from sunlight and dust. LESSON COMPLETED BY Ratt Baron Furryblueelf Edited by hannanibal, 12th July 2013 - 07:44 AM.
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Chaos Army Diary Skaven Army Diary My Flickr page
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| Ratt Baron | 29th June 2013 - 03:59 PM Post #2 |
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Warlord
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Wow. What a lesson. Now we're getting to the tricky bit. Let's hope for a steady brush and a clean palette Good luck everyone hannanibal help!!!!!!!!!! how do you keep the tail segments from building up with paint.. No matter what I do the tail it starts turning into a single block of colour from halfway . Edited by Ratt Baron, 30th June 2013 - 12:06 PM.
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Creator of the Double Doomwheel Code: ![]() | |
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| hannanibal | 30th June 2013 - 12:20 PM Post #3 |
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The bread that satisfies all hunger... the peanut that reverses time...
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You just need to do a small flick on each ring of the tail. flick, flick. flick, as you go up the tail. Do the same for the other side. Plus, your paint might be too thick. |
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Chaos Army Diary Skaven Army Diary My Flickr page
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| Ratt Baron | 5th July 2013 - 07:13 PM Post #4 |
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Warlord
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That was without doubt the hardest bit of painting I have ever done! To put it into context my usual skin tone are Dwarf flesh high lighted with elf flesh ,washed with ogre flesh then picked up with elf flesh So base coat ,a wash , and 6 layers of mixed flesh is unbelievable.I hope you`re happy with the results,whilst not as fluid as the example I`m really happy with it ![]() ![]() |
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Creator of the Double Doomwheel Code: ![]() | |
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| hannanibal | 5th July 2013 - 07:50 PM Post #5 |
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The bread that satisfies all hunger... the peanut that reverses time...
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I think that's excellent! How did you find working with glaze medium? |
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Chaos Army Diary Skaven Army Diary My Flickr page
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| Ratt Baron | 5th July 2013 - 07:58 PM Post #6 |
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Warlord
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Thats a tricky one I put one drop in the mix with 1 drop of water .It did seem to go on smooth But by the last 2 coats the mix was running low and I was tooooo scared to add any thing except water in case it went breasts up If you look really close at the face there is a bit of brush stroking so maybe it needed some then But all in all for me personally its a huge leap forward thanks |
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Creator of the Double Doomwheel Code: ![]() | |
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| Skrits | 5th July 2013 - 08:19 PM Post #7 |
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Conversioneer Extrordinaire
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When you see your model and it looks good 300% bigger on a computerscreen then you know your doing something right Ratt Baron. Looks really nice, must look superb in the flesh. |
![]() Skrits's Conversion-Heavy Legion of Rats - Finished Clan Mordkin - Current project and 2nd Skaven army Skrits's Daemonic Legions - In progress on and off Magic Cards for: Skaven Screaming Bell, Missfires, Plague and Ruin Schools | |
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| Danbob87 | 5th July 2013 - 09:22 PM Post #8 |
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Stormvermin
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What's the policy on joining the masterclass late? I need to break my dependence on dry brushing... |
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My Skaven Army Diary My Dark Elves Cult of Slaanesh Army Diary Photobucket | |
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| Ratt Baron | 5th July 2013 - 10:29 PM Post #9 |
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Warlord
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Thanks Skrits In the flesh it looks Great but there are a few bits round the edges of the legs that are poorly blended But overall I'm very happy And to be brutely honest this is way above my usual painting standard so good ol hannanibal must be doing something right !!! Edited by Ratt Baron, 5th July 2013 - 10:32 PM.
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Creator of the Double Doomwheel Code: ![]() | |
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| Furryblueelf | 6th July 2013 - 12:26 AM Post #10 |
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Clanrat
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I may not get mine done in time sorry teach. I have a vile nasty cold and cough ever 5-30 seconds. Its playing havoc on painting. Already been one week and Im as grumpy as hell. |
| What we do in life, echoes in eternity. | |
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| Olorin the Ancient | 6th July 2013 - 03:15 AM Post #11 |
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You're allowed to join late. Hannanibal may or may not choose to comment on the earlier lessons, and obviously you do have to catch up, but you're allowed to join at any time! |
| - Olorin the Ancient | |
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| Furryblueelf | 11th July 2013 - 06:24 AM Post #12 |
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Clanrat
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Every time I see a macro shot of my rats I cringe. Curse these feeble hands! At least I got rid of my cough enough to paint. This lessons homework. ![]() ![]() As an aside, the grainy effect apparently happens to some cans of AP White Primer. So I am glad in a way it is not just me, but conversely pissed that it has happened now. Shame unlike cooking where texture can be awesome. |
| What we do in life, echoes in eternity. | |
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| hannanibal | 11th July 2013 - 07:50 AM Post #13 |
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The bread that satisfies all hunger... the peanut that reverses time...
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Looks good from the second picture but the glare is making it really hard to see the colour gradients. Any chance you could use a sheet to cut the glare out and take another picture? Mutate:- It doesn't matter. I fudged the contrast levels in Pixlr and it looks fine to me. Well done mate. Edited by hannanibal, 11th July 2013 - 07:54 AM.
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Chaos Army Diary Skaven Army Diary My Flickr page
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| Furryblueelf | 11th July 2013 - 09:28 AM Post #14 |
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Clanrat
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Thanks Hannibal. I am using a home made light box with a poxy old camera. My friends DSLR is in the shop now. The light box sure has helped the old camera, but still not miracles. Thanks again. Looking forward with trepidation for next week. |
| What we do in life, echoes in eternity. | |
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| Jona | 25th July 2013 - 11:57 AM Post #15 |
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Warlord
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Here is mine: Front Left side Back Right side Additional angle 1 Additional angle 2 Additional angle 3 Additional angle 4 I noticed the paint on the spear when it was too late to wipe off, so that will need fixing later. Apart from that I'm not sure the colours really match yours, but I'm quite pleased with the blending itself (apart from some minor mistakes). It seemed that the Vallejo paint has a lot more pigments in it than the GW ones (I used old GW ones instead of the fleshtones you use), which results in a rather more purple result using your ratio's than on your model. I hope that's acceptable, though. I was also wondering whether it's okay if I retouch the black hairs on the head, as some of it was overpainted but still shows through. Or is that kind of touching up included in future steps? If there's any remarks, give a shout and I'll try to fix it. Thanks again for these wonderful tutorials, I feel like I'm really learning a lot.
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Attempts at interclannal cooperation - a Skaven army log Puppet Wars Unstitched | |
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