| Master Class 1: Lesson 2 - Priming; Clanrat: Start to Finish | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: 18th May 2013 - 08:10 PM (2,418 Views) | |
| hannanibal | 18th May 2013 - 08:10 PM Post #1 |
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The bread that satisfies all hunger... the peanut that reverses time...
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Master Class 1 Clanrat: Start to Finish with Hannanibal Lesson Two Priming ![]() Clanrat model as it was left at the end of the previous lesson. INTRODUCTION In this second lesson, we will be priming the miniature with black spray. Then, you have a choice: my preferred option is to use the dual-primer method, and over-spray the model with white primer. Those of you who do not have white spray primer will need to paint a brown undercoat instead, as the colours you'll be using in future lessons will not come through properly if painted directly over black. MATERIALS NEEDED
SETUP Find a well ventilated area with good lighting. Outside is best, but if it's too hot, wet, or windy, then use a garage, a garden shed, or anywhere else you can get REALLY good ventilation and good lighting. Don't use spray primer in your bedroom unless you want to develop lung problems. Lay down your sheet on the floor, and place your box in the middle, upside-down. Once again, if you're doing this indoors, make sure the windows, doors are open and their is some good air circulation going on. Check to make sure that the model is absolutely free from dust. Blow off the dust, or wipe the model clean with a soft, dry brush. Place the model UPRIGHT on top of the upside-down box. PRIMING BLACK Shake your can of black spray primer for a good 20 seconds, and do a test spray on the side of the box to make sure the spray is coming out. The spray will probably be thin and watery for the first few bursts, so don't let these initial sprays touch the miniature. Make sure the spray comes out on the side of the box in a nice, even black spray. Once you are satisfied that the primer is spraying neatly, hold the can 20-25 centimetres (8-10 inches) away form the model, slightly higher than the model and facing at a slight downward angle. Spray in a couple of short bursts, rotate the box, and spray a couple of bursts until all sides of the upright model have been burst-sprayed. ![]() Don't attempt to cover the entire model with solid black just yet. We will be turning the model over soon, and doing thin layers all over. Wait at least one hour for the black spray to dry before laying the model flat on any one of its four sides. (It doesn't matter which side you start with, as we'll be getting to all of them.) You will notice areas where the primer has not touched which remain grey. Using the same technique as before, spray the model. Aim for the grey areas, and spray from 20-25 centimetres (8-10 inches) away for nice, thin layers. Once this side has dried, turn the model onto the next side, and repeat. Once the whole model is covered black and has been allowed to dry for at least two hours, stand it upright in the centre of the box. ![]() THE ADVANTAGES OF DUAL-PRIMING Dual-priming (covering the model fully with black primer, and then lightly over-spraying with white primer) has many benefits. Because the dark primer stays in the recesses and the light primer stays on the raised edges, this method provides a natural guide for shading and highlights. It also picks out all the details in sharp relief, making the miniature easier to paint. One advantage of dual-priming that won't come into play in this class, but is still worth knowing about, is that if you paint in thin glazes, the gradient of the primer shows through, providing highlights and shading. This aspect of the technique can be seen in a topic that I started in March 2012, documenting my experiment with dual-priming my Herald of Nurgle model. If you dual-prime, you will later be able to basecoat each section directly with individual base colours, painted straight over the dual-primed miniature. The people who do not dual-prime will need an additional Calthan Brown undercoat to start off with, as the black primer is too dark to be used directly underneath the colour basecoats. It is better to dual-prime, and I recommend that you do it if you can, but it's not essential by any means, as the thin-glaze technique isn't being used on this model. If you can't dual-prime, you can simply paint their model fully with Calthan Brown. You won't be able to see the details as clearly, and you won't get the natural guide for shading and highlighting, but the brown will provide a decent undercoat for your future basecoats, allowing you to proceed with the next lesson. OPTION 1: Dual-Prime with White Spray Primer If you have a white primer, shake the can for 20 seconds and test spray on the sides of the box. It's REALLY important to do a test spray with white, as it comes out thick and furry for the first few bursts, which will ruin the model completely if they hit it. Spray until solid white paint comes out. Once you're satisfied that the spray is coming out neatly, hold the can 20-25 centimetres (8-10 inches) away from the model at a high angle like in the above picture. Keep this angle fixed. Do not move your spray hand from this angle. Spray two short bursts, and rotate the model slightly by turning the box. Spray two very light bursts again, and repeat until all sides of the model have had a very thin blast of white. You are not trying to cover the model completely in white. Just give it a light dusting to hit the raised edges and keep black in the recesses. Less is more with the white spray. ![]() OPTION 2: Undercoat with Calthan Brown If you are not going to use the white primer, wait at least THREE hours for the black primer to dry, and then apply a thin layer of Calthan Brown to the entire model using a large brush. Make the paint ratio slightly more water to paint, something like 60/40 or 70/30 water to paint. PHOTOGRAPHY Whether you dual-primed the model or undercoated it brown, leave the model to dry for a day, and then take a good, close-up photograph of it, using a macro setting if you have one. Make the photo clear and bright, and upload it here for comment and criticism before 31 May 2013. If you're unsure of your photography skills, you might want to check out my basic guide to Taking a Decent Photo, if you haven't seen it before. Keep the model stored away from dust and sunlight. LESSON COMPLETED BY Ghaznub Furryblueelf Git-Git Nazarath Rahotep Skritrik Olorin The Ancient Edited by hannanibal, 1st June 2013 - 10:27 AM.
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| Ghaznub | 19th May 2013 - 07:26 PM Post #2 |
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Grey Seer
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![]() It looked so much clearer than that when I took the photo. I can try to get another one done if you want, seem to be having problems getting the focus right... |
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| hannanibal | 19th May 2013 - 08:48 PM Post #3 |
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The bread that satisfies all hunger... the peanut that reverses time...
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Ghaz that seems fine. Just get some tweezers and get rid of that hair on the tail before you start painting. |
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| Ghaznub | 19th May 2013 - 09:02 PM Post #4 |
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Grey Seer
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Was a little bit of web from drying outside |
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| hannanibal | 19th May 2013 - 09:18 PM Post #5 |
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The bread that satisfies all hunger... the peanut that reverses time...
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Ahhhh...The hazards of drying outside. At least a bird didn't crap on it. |
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| nazarath | 21st May 2013 - 07:08 AM Post #6 |
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Chieftain
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Just a small question out of curiosity: You mention that if one doesn't want to Dual Prime, he should use Calthan Brown because black is to dark. I have an almost Calthan Brown like spray primer, is it an even better idea to prime the mini with that (so the colors will come out better than on Black), and afterwards spray it with white? Or would the contrast between brown and white be to small to matter much? |
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| hannanibal | 21st May 2013 - 07:43 AM Post #7 |
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The bread that satisfies all hunger... the peanut that reverses time...
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Those who use the "Calthan Brown option" will be undercoating the entire model, with Calthan Brown, over a fully black primer because next lessons basecoats won't work directly over solid black. The next lessons basecoats will work just fine over a dual primed miniature (better even). Using a brown+white dual-primer the contrast would be too small to matter much. Just dual-prime black and white and then I'll know for sure that the result will be good. |
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| CapAmr05 | 21st May 2013 - 02:40 PM Post #8 |
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I primed up over the weekend, didn't have any white primer so I'm just going the basic route. I'll try to remember to take a pic and post the next time I'm around the house. --Cap |
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| hannanibal | 21st May 2013 - 03:08 PM Post #9 |
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The bread that satisfies all hunger... the peanut that reverses time...
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Nice one Cap. Look forward to seeing your progress. |
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| Furryblueelf | 22nd May 2013 - 06:36 AM Post #10 |
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Clanrat
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Just a clarification if you could Hannanibal. On the second bout of black spray painting when the model is on its side. Do we do the two bursts, turn the box repeat three more times until that side is done. Then wait for dry, turn the model over to another of its sides and repeat? |
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| hannanibal | 22nd May 2013 - 07:42 AM Post #11 |
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The bread that satisfies all hunger... the peanut that reverses time...
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Lay it on it's side and spray wherever there is grey plastic showing through. If you can't see grey plastic then don't spray. Grey plastic is most likely to show"underneath" the model. Two or three bursts will probably be enough but if you need to do more wait until those 2 or 3 bursts dry before adding another layer otherwise it will go on too thick. Once sprayed fully black and dry, turn it onto another side that has grey plastic showing through and repeat. Hope this helps. |
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| Furryblueelf | 22nd May 2013 - 08:34 AM Post #12 |
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Clanrat
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It does indeed. Be back later
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| CapAmr05 | 25th May 2013 - 02:01 AM Post #13 |
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Full coverage on this bad boy. ![]() ![]() --Cap |
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| hannanibal | 25th May 2013 - 07:52 AM Post #14 |
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The bread that satisfies all hunger... the peanut that reverses time...
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Nice one Cap. Will you be twin priming it or basecoating it with Calthan Brown? One week left everybody! Lets see those primed models! This is the last non-painting lesson. After this we're getting down to the interesting stuff. Edited by hannanibal, 25th May 2013 - 07:53 AM.
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| Furryblueelf | 26th May 2013 - 02:24 AM Post #15 |
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Clanrat
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Here is my lad. Sorry the picture quality is a bit rubbish, I did not have access to my friends SLR this week.![]() In case it was not obvious, this is the rat formally known as Euryales. My wife ridiculed my feminine username so I have gone back to my old school Furryblueelf. I have another contrast shot available at http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab122/furryblueelf/Warhammer/Master%20class%20homework/Dualcoatshot2.jpg. Not posted to save space on the thread as requested ![]() Edited by Furryblueelf, 26th May 2013 - 02:27 AM.
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