| Tech help please 1x10 | |
|---|---|
| Tweet Topic Started: Apr 18 2014, 09:37 AM (356 Views) | |
| steveonstumpy | Apr 18 2014, 09:37 AM Post #1 |
|
Fairly Muddied
|
As I have mentioned before I am (still!) wanting to build a long travel hardtail for all my mtb use, idea being to only have two bikes:- one slick, one muddy. I am going to strip my Stumpjumper sell the frame and use all/most of the bits on the 456ti or maybe a Cotic Soul frame as you guys suggested last year. As the title suggests I am thinking modern 1x10 drive will be ample plus allow me to go single speed easier. Thing is I know nothing of clutched mechs, cassettes, ratios, best manufacturers or chain devices.....Over to you lot!!!! |
 |
 
|
| belugabob | Apr 18 2014, 01:56 PM Post #2 |
Mudking
|
I get the impression that people are currently ditching chain devices, in favour of a clutch mech and a wide/narrow chainring. Do a search on singletrackworld for narrow/wide (check out the larger sprockets for you cassette, from oneup and others) |
|
|
|
| Ming the Merciless | Apr 19 2014, 10:12 AM Post #3 |
Overlord of all Known Sheds!
|
From STW and other websites it seems there have been a few issues with the super wide range rear cog mods "defeating" the clutch rear mech and narrow wide chainring as they introduce too much chain length and lead to the chain falling/flapping off. I don't know if it affects 10 speed but speaking to an Enduro racer the SRAM 11spd equipment is VERY sensitive to chain wear and again leads to dropped chains. I've also heard anecdotal evidence from the LBS that the SRAM clutch mechs last about 12 months before going very loose and requiring replacement. Personally I'd stay conventional 2X10 with shimano clutch mech (I've run XTR and 2 XT clutch mechs all have been fine except I managed to crack one of the knuckles on the XTR one probably falling off at Cannock.....grrrr). 2 x 10 is not too much of a weight penalty and you have the benefit of getting up every hill and you won't run out of gears down hill either until you reach silly speeds. With that set up on the HT I've only dropped the chain once and that was whilst pursuing somebody on a full suss down a moguls type section. |
|
|
|
| robbo167 | Apr 19 2014, 06:56 PM Post #4 |
|
Bog Monster
|
I run 1x9 on my Inbred 29'er with a Pauls Components chain guide,normal mech and 9-speed chainring (34 tooth)...very rarely drops a chain,maybe 3 times max. On my Fatty it's 1x9 again,old mech and a ten speed (big teeth!) 33 tooth chainring...never dropped the chain but maybe that's because the tyres soak up the bumps!! Can't find anything else with gears!!....... |
|
|
|
| steveonstumpy | Apr 20 2014, 08:52 AM Post #5 |
|
Fairly Muddied
|
That's more encouraging  I had a road bike 1 x 7 and even with a Dura Ace mech the chain fell off too much. Are we saying that the massive rear sprockets used in these set ups are the root cause of the problem? I don't think I need a 32t rear sprocket anyway. If I used a more conventional cassette, a normal (long cage) mech and a smaller chain ring plus chain device is that going to be more reliable? Oh and Hi Robbo how's things?! |
|
|
|
| robbo167 | Apr 20 2014, 09:16 AM Post #6 |
|
Bog Monster
|
All cool here thanks Steve...I would go for a narrow/wide front ring with a normal set-up(1x10,more choice?).....see how you get on...if it drops add a clutch mech. The big cassette ring needs a huge amount of chain..this must lead to issues further down the drivetrain (possibly,as i have no hands on experience of these ) I rode a 1x9(no front guide) hybrid as a commuter for years and only dropped the chain twice...chain tension is everything!!! |
|
|
|
| Dave le Trek | Apr 24 2014, 05:36 PM Post #7 |
Mud Lover
|
Have a look at 'Rotor 3D' They now do a single chain set designed for mtb....without the need for a chain device.....very nice indeed.... Good to see you still out there Rob... see you all soon... DLT....
|
|
|
|
| hobbz | Apr 27 2014, 08:10 AM Post #8 |
|
Bog Monster
|
converted to 1x10 all shimano slx bar the narrow/wide chain-ring which is a 34t hope . rear mech is clutch, and as long as you get chain line correct ,no probs. No chain drop thus far ,have riden some dh,naggery north downs and south downs and also some select bits of friston, all good
|
|
|
|
| steveonstumpy | Apr 27 2014, 09:33 AM Post #9 |
|
Fairly Muddied
|
I can't find any mtb stuff from that Rotor 3d firm DLT it looks all roadie. Thanks Hobbz sounds like a very cost effective solution as the SRAM stuff is way out there, cost wise, plus Ming's observations do not inspire confidence. With regard to chain alignment am I right to assume that the chainset needs to line up with the middle of the cassette? (bit tough the middle of ten I know  )
|
|
|
|
| Dave le Trek | Apr 28 2014, 08:31 PM Post #10 |
|
Mud Lover
|
Steve... you'll find that you have to buy the crank arms and the mtb chain rings separately....it is costly...upwards of £200...... DLT.....
|
|
|
|
| Dave le Trek | Apr 30 2014, 05:31 PM Post #11 |
|
Mud Lover
|
Steve have a look for the Rotor QX1....BCD76. it has deep tooth profile....together with a rear mech/clutch.....chain should be solid. DLT.....
|
|
|
|
| 1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous) | |
| « Previous Topic · The Muddy@rse Grinder · Next Topic » |