| Chain Slap | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Nov 16 2011, 03:00 PM (242 Views) | |
| Bill the wheels | Nov 16 2011, 03:00 PM Post #1 |
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billywheels
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If when chain is in big front & big rear,and there is still a few inches of derailleur travel,could i take maybe one or more links out. Your views please guys... |
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| Ming the Merciless | Nov 16 2011, 03:07 PM Post #2 |
Overlord of all Known Sheds!
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Maybe but you run into winding you mech and hanger all the way round your back wheel if your not careful moments. Not that I've been there at all. |
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| Chadders | Nov 16 2011, 04:13 PM Post #3 |
Mud Connoisseur
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Yes absolutely. Realistically you should never end up in this situation anyway as I'm sure you already know. I tend to set my chain length by wrapping around big ring and big sprocket without passing through the rear mech and then adding 2 full links. This does mean you might not be able to run how you mentioned i.e. big ring big sprocket, but if that bothers you you can always add three full links. Does that make any sense at all??? 
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| Bill the wheels | Nov 16 2011, 05:23 PM Post #4 |
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billywheels
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Thanks guys,i used the method you mention chadders to size chain,but i do feel its a tad to long.and maybe that might reduce the chain slap! |
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| hobbz | Nov 16 2011, 05:42 PM Post #5 |
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Bog Monster
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a lot of dh teams remove the spring from the shock (or let the air out if air shock) and then let the bike sag into full compression then fit the chain. this then gives you minimum chain length without it graunching and utilises the spare movement in the mech to keep everything slap free.. i think theres a "how to" on pinkbike with the chainreaction mechanic showing how this is done ps. as ollie points out regarding chain length, i forgot to mention that they, as with ollies method, pass the chain through the rear mech, but still be aware of the chain getting too tight |
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| Ollie | Nov 16 2011, 05:42 PM Post #6 |
Mudthing
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I don't use the chadders method (although I know its popular). I thread the chain through the mech, use a cable strap to hold the mech up close to the chainstay, and then get it bar tight on the big cogs. Then I join with a powerlink and that gives the extra ickle bit needed to prevent everything getting horribly tight when you accidentally shift into big-big  I swapped a chain between bikes once and suddenly everything when very tight and stiff. Had to release the rear skewer to get enough slack to get the chain back off the cogs!Edit: With Hobbz method, beware that some bikes the chain length SHORTENS when the suspension is compressed, which means you could end up with an over-tight chain when the suspension is in its normal position
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| robbo167 | Nov 16 2011, 07:03 PM Post #7 |
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Bog Monster
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I set my chain length by going around the cog at the front...... and then around the cog at the back..........simples And the only slap I get is when I start looking at new bikes! |
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| steveonstumpy | Nov 20 2011, 07:29 PM Post #8 |
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Fairly Muddied
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I know its been said but it cannot be stressed enough big, big is a MASSIVE no no!!! Why would you??? There are at least two better chain run options to give you the same gear inches on most 3 x 9 set ups! |
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