| 1x9 or 1x10... HELP!; Drive train plans... | |
|---|---|
| Tweet Topic Started: Sep 23 2011, 12:17 PM (363 Views) | |
| EddyDave | Sep 23 2011, 12:17 PM Post #1 |
|
Bog Monster
|
Good afternoon all! Right, now this may seem like a bit of a repeat of this time last year.. But I sold my coiler and am now building up another one from nearly nothing except brakes and a wheel... Now I'm thinking I'm gonna try something a bit different and go for a 1x something set up. But I'm a bit stuck as to what to go for. And if its worth the extra £50 (roughly overal) to go to 10sp rather than 9sp. I am going to use a chain guide along the lines of this so that bit is covered. Also if anyone has any parts in good nick then I'd be interested ![]() Ta |
![]() |
|
| Chadders | Sep 23 2011, 12:49 PM Post #2 |
|
Mud Connoisseur
|
Unless you're using it as a Downhill bike you'll miss the granny ring a lot. Stick to a 2x9 setup. Also means you can run a tighter ratio cassette and a shorter caged rear mech. |
![]() |
|
| EddyDave | Sep 23 2011, 01:07 PM Post #3 |
|
Bog Monster
|
Hi Chadders! Yeah I'll be using it for a bit of everything really mainly 'trail centers' (I guess thats what Cannock Chase counts as) and then some more aggressive stuff when I get home. All I needed was for someone to point out that I didn't NEED it and that really I just wanted it ![]() When we say shorter caged mech... like this Medium SLX one? And what would that do? |
![]() |
|
| Chadders | Sep 23 2011, 02:18 PM Post #4 |
|
Mud Connoisseur
|
A shorter mech cage generally means sharper shifting and shorter chain, so less chain slap. Most importantly though it means there is less of it sticking out to be ripped off by a rock or stump! |
![]() |
|
| hobbz | Sep 23 2011, 04:31 PM Post #5 |
|
Bog Monster
|
you can run a 1x9 and use a 32 or 34 tooth chainring and this should cover you for all but the steepest hill. Ive bumped into some people running a 1x10 with a 36t chainring, and a mate of mine runs a 1x9 using a 32t chainring. Also make sure yyour rear mech is compatible with your cassette. ie will it run with an 11-36 cassette or 11-34 etc. At the end of the day its down to trial and error as to which one will suit your riding and terrain :ph43r: |
![]() |
|
| darth vader | Sep 23 2011, 04:48 PM Post #6 |
![]()
Mudking
|
I agree with Chadders go for two rings at the front that way you can run a 9 cog at the back that will save you on the cost shifters a 10 speed chain etc and will give you more of a chance on the hills a 10 speed will still have an 11 36 range on it so why not get a 9 speed with an 11 36 range on it ? and have the benefit of the extra front cog a two ring set up up front will still look bad ass down hiller |
![]() |
|
| EddyDave | Sep 24 2011, 10:13 AM Post #7 |
|
Bog Monster
|
Thanks all for your advice
|
![]() |
|
| darth vader | Oct 27 2011, 08:06 AM Post #8 |
![]()
Mudking
|
Sorry Eddy I thought you could get a 9 spped 11-36 (In fact I thought I had one ) but with the help of Pat Pend and his amazing torch it is infact it is a 11 34 sorry for any confusion |
![]() |
|
| EddyDave | Oct 27 2011, 08:16 AM Post #9 |
|
Bog Monster
|
Haha no worries! I have gone for 2x9 at the mo, I will probs go to 1x10 on this bike at some point! |
![]() |
|
| 1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous) | |
| « Previous Topic · The Muddy@rse Grinder · Next Topic » |








