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Front Blade - Fabrication
Topic Started: Mar 11 2009, 10:04 PM (213 Views)
young enthusiest
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Attached is a word doc of the information from another thread that all you helpful people posted about blade sub-frames. I copied all the pictures, made a word doc, then drew my own blade design in the same document. please take a look at it, and tell me if you think I ought to make some changes. OH! and if you have any questions, feel free to ask! I like answering questions!
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Attachments: blade_sub_frame_pics.doc (3.16 MB)
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Matt G.
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That 'X' brace between the two side pieces should really be a ~1/4" or so plate like the OEM one. There is a lot of force carried by that plate. I made one once similar to yours, and I managed to bend the subframe pretty bad when I hit a rock. If I were you, I'd add some sort of spring trip mechanism. Non-spring trip blades can be dangerous if you aren't careful. Could you explain the pivot mechanism a little more? I don't really understand it. I also can't really comment on how strong it will be, as your drawing doesn't have any details about the construction of the pivot mechanism.
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young enthusiest
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Thanks for the advice on the plate! Putting some kind of trip mechanism in, that could take a good deal of thinking. About the pivot system, I have since revised it. Microsoft word does not like to draw things as you like them, it kinda throws everything out of whack. on the left side of the blade (sitting in the seat) there is a round tube, that slides over another tube. there is a spring loaded pin, that falls into holes drilled into each. pull the pin, extend or retract the slide, and the blade angles in or out. I will try to do a little bit of a more detailed drawing of the pivot points some time today. Could somebody explain the trip mechanism on the Ih blades? All I see is two springs, but then the blade would lean forward a little no matter what the load. I must be missing some kind of a trigger system. Thanks for the help. I hope to get the drawing completed by this afternoon.
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Matt G.
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The springs hold the blade in the upright position. When you hit a rock or chunk of concrete or something similar in the ground, the blade tilts forward, and the springs bring it back up. Hopefully my hastily-created drawing will help you understand it.

The tube idea could work; however, if I were to make a blade, I would try to simply find a blade from some other garden tractor and then alter it to fit. Keep in mind that if you hit something and buckle one of those tubes just the slightest bit, they won't slide over each other after that. Not to mention it's rather difficult to find standard tube sizes that happen to slide over each other....BTDT...

IH used a fairly substantial piece of metal bent into a tapered C-channel that the pivot mounts to. I would mimic the OEM pivot design, but use a large, thick-wall rectangular tube in place of the C-channel. I can illustrate this if necessary.
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Attachments: spring_trip.png (31.68 KB)
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young enthusiest
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That was a pretty good drawing. I knew that the springs did that, but won't the blade tilt forward a little bit if you were pushing dirt or something else that was quite heavy?
Please keep in mind that I put that drawing of my blade together in about half an hour, (most of the time spend cussing the computer out) so I have some flaws I have already fixed (or so I think). Thanks for your advice Matt!
I shall try to get that drawing altered momentarily...
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Matt G.
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For one, those are some VERY stiff springs, and two, it's designed such that you have to apply a very large force to make it trip, i.e. an impact.
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young enthusiest
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Ok. I got the new drawings done, I hate, hate, hate microsoft word. You can't do drawing in it. all the things either go Here Or here
They can't go here.
It made me very mad.
Please ask questions so I can explain my horrible design.
Thanks
I hope I got the right attachment
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Attachments: blade_sub_frame_pics.doc (3.17 MB)
Edited by dyt4000, Mar 13 2009, 05:23 AM.
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