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| 147 restore; Need advice | |
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| Topic Started: Mar 6 2009, 08:34 AM (423 Views) | |
| jeff0862 | Mar 6 2009, 08:34 AM Post #1 |
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I picked up a 147 last fall with a sleeve hitch and gear box for a tiller. I started loking around and found a 1a tiller a brinly plow, aset of disks, and a snow plow for the front. I also just orderd a set of Ag's ,they should be in monday. Like all 30 year old cubs it needs some tlc. I rebuilt the steering box, and changed the hydo fluid and filter, and brazed a peice of keystock on the truion before winter so I could use it for plowing snow . I knew that that the hydro was leaking but did'nt have time to tear into it before the snow started flying. Well spring is coming so it's time to restore this cub so I can use the rest of the toys I've got for it. I split the tractor last night and it seems to be leaking from around the pressure release valves. It looks like there's fluid coming from around the top pins. If I pull the valves and replace the o-rings will this fix the problem or will I need new valves? I also am going to replace the cork gasket while I have it apart because I don't want to have to do this twice. I also pulled the head on the motor and discovered some oil around the head gasket. It only blew smoke on start up then would quit, but i figure I should rebuild it while the tractors torn apart. Do the bottom ends usually stay tight. I was thinking of trying the rebuild myself and subing out the machine work. Redoing the top end would be no problem but did't know if I should attempt the bottom or not. If i do I read that alot of guys remove the balance gears, is this the right thing to do? Will it cause alot more vibration? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. This is a great fourm and I learn more everyday. Thanks Jeff . |
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| Feltzy | Mar 6 2009, 09:29 AM Post #2 |
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Jeff....Click the link. This is what im doing and Richard is a member here. http://cubfaq.com/relief1.html |
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| dyt4000 | Mar 6 2009, 09:37 AM Post #3 |
Cub Cadet 109
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On the relief valves, not everyone has access to a lathe...check with our sponsor and the folks in our parts provider area. They will have them at a good price. |
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| ACecil | Mar 6 2009, 12:34 PM Post #4 |
 
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Jeff, I'd get rid of the balance gears. If they ever decide to go, they'll leave a big hole in your block. I've heard of guys rebuilding engines, and not put the balance gears back in. Edited by ACecil, Mar 6 2009, 12:35 PM.
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| mharrison | Mar 6 2009, 07:44 PM Post #5 |
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My uncle takes the balance gears out of the kohlers that he rebuilds. he says they can cause a rattling noise. but they run great even without them. i didn't take them out of my 126 because the po did a good job screwing up the set screws on the pto. so it would be a PITA to get if off without damaging the crank. so i didn't remove the crank. therefore i couldn't remove the balancer gears. otherwise i would have. just thought i give a little input. i don't really see an increase in vibration either. Good Luck! Mike |
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| jeff0862 | Mar 7 2009, 12:39 PM Post #6 |
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Thanks for all of the great advice. Im going to use the releif valve fix, a freind of mine has access to a lathe he's coming over today to pick them up. I pulled the motor and am running into the same problem Mike had. The po rounded out one of the set screws for the front PTO. I would probally just leave it but the front oil seal is popped out hanging on the crank.I did't pull the piston yet but I mic"d the cyclinder and so far it's in spec. Thats it for now I have to run and get some more drill bits, I've already busted two, and a screw exstractor this morning trying to get that set screw out. :angry |
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| Yosemite Sam | Mar 7 2009, 03:17 PM Post #7 |
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Jeff, The relief valve repair works good, I've done it before and I have a pair of disassembled valves on the bench right now. Personally I don't know anyone who puts the balance gears back in when they rebuild a motor and I've never heard of anyone having any problems. While you have it apart you may want to consider replacing all the seals in the hydro, there are four if them (front back and one on each side) The one on the left does require dissembling the hydro though. Good luck and keep us posted |
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| jeff0862 | Mar 7 2009, 08:51 PM Post #8 |
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Ok I finally was able to remove the last screw holding the PTO (wow those set screws are hard). The Instrustion manaul says to remove the screws than remove the pto as a unit, the PTO is loose but will not come off. I tried useing a pry bar between the motor and the pully making sure that the pressure was applied down by the shaft, but will not move, I sprayed it with more PB blaster and let it sit over night then try again tomorrow. Any other ideas or suggestions? :Rant |
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| Matt G. | Mar 7 2009, 08:55 PM Post #9 |
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Have you removed all 6 setscrews? There are supposed to be 2 in each hole. |
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| Yosemite Sam | Mar 7 2009, 11:53 PM Post #10 |
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From what you said it almost sounds like you are trying to take the starter pulley and basket off with the PTO... The pto and the starter pulley and basket are two separate parts and you can't get the starter pulley and basket set screws (yeah more set screws) out until the pto is off. Also if you had to drill the set screws out, sometimes the cone point(s) on a/the screw(s) will stay in place and prevent the pto from coming off. The pto will feel loose and be wobbly but the tips of the set screws actually go in behind the pto bearing and it won't come off until the tips of these screws are drilled all the way through. Don't pry on the pto very hard if the screw tips are still in there because it can break a chip out of the back of the pto casting making it useless. Edited by Yosemite Sam, Mar 8 2009, 11:55 AM.
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| jeff0862 | Mar 12 2009, 07:24 AM Post #11 |
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Thanks for all of the great advice guy's. I could'nt see the second set of screws because someone had took off the pto clutch before and when they put it back on they did'nt line the holes up with the cutouts in the shroud. I finnally got it apart and off to the machine shop for a rebuild ( bore 1/10 over regrind valves, bottom end is still good po must had changed oil regularly). I put the new gasket on the hydro, still waiting to get the releif valves back, everything is repainted, going to replace the pin on the front axles, put it back together and wait for the motor to get back from the shop. I'll try and post some pic's when I get a chance. |
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| MBounds | Mar 12 2009, 08:20 AM Post #12 |
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Pssst.... Jeff 0682...The PTO set screw holes rotate in or out of alignment with the fluted shroud everytime you engage or disengage the clutch. To line them up.you simply pull the PTO handle back, disengaging the clutch, and manually rotate the holes into alignment with the cutouts....Just thought you might like to know that for the future...By the way, I hope you put "Never-Sieze" on those set screws when you replaced the PTO clutch...Sure will make it easier to remove the PTO again in a few years (no rust!!). If you didn't, I recommend that you go back in there and do that before the set screws have time to rust to the cast iron pulley... Myron B CCSupplyRoom Edited by MBounds, Mar 12 2009, 08:22 AM.
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| jeff0862 | Mar 12 2009, 03:52 PM Post #13 |
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Myron thanks for the tip on the pto, the service manual I have did'nt mention it, I'll remember that if I ever have to mess with it again. The motor is at the machine shop right now but I planned on putting never seize on the screws when I put it back together. Jeff |
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| T-Mo | Mar 13 2009, 06:38 AM Post #14 |
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On the balance gears - I rebuilt a K321 in a Wheel Horse last year. I left the balance gears out and the only thing you will notice is more vibration at low idle. And the vibration is noticeable at low idle, but it goes away as you throttle up. I would recommend leaving them out. |
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| Skip | Mar 13 2009, 07:06 AM Post #15 |
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JEff heres my .02 Replace the cork gasket, the cleaner you are the better you will be in the long run. I hate spliting hydro's so do it right the first time. Balance gear OUT! I took them out on my 129 and all the noise went away. I didnt have to take the crank out to get them off. 14 you will. Bottom end, just chek the crank. If its out turn in under for 50 bucks around here, or build it back up and turn standard for 100 around here. Im going standard on all mine. Also you have to remember that the rod is much softer than the crank. Check with our sponsers on the valves. I have a few sets, but Im keeping them :) and on the eng rebuild, if you do it now and right youll be good for another 40 yrs, and how old are you? Good luck and post pics!
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