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| Hydrostatic Transmission leak | |
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| Topic Started: Feb 28 2009, 10:24 PM (559 Views) | |
| Warhog | Feb 28 2009, 10:24 PM Post #1 |
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I have a 109 and it leaks fluid sitting in the garage...............so off comes the rear fenders and seat and I clean 30 years of crud off the transmission and if you look at the 149 transmission that is pinned in the tech library on page 3 it is #30 and it leaks oil at the bottom were it attaches to the case. There is a gasket #23 p/n 721-3004 I suspect is the issue and needs to be replaced. Has anybody done this before and have any tips? The tractor runs good no other issues I looked over the rest of the area and it looks good. Anybody have a link for a maintenance manual I hate to go wrenching blindly and make it worse any help is greatly appreciated. |
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| young enthusiest | Feb 28 2009, 10:31 PM Post #2 |
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could you post a link to the diagram please. it would make it a little easier to find. I cannot be of much help, but the link might be of benefit to the guys who can. |
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| 67hydro | Feb 28 2009, 10:54 PM Post #3 |
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Hello Warhog #23 is the one you want to replace!!There is 4 bolts holding the hydro on the rear.Im sure you know but you will have to remove the drive shaft,a good time to check/replace the flex disc.I cant rember if you have to remove the whole rear end, but it probably would be easier to do. I have a copy of a manual for a hydro trans on pdf I can try to E mail you if you want.Ill check if it good for the 109. Jason |
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| Merk | Feb 28 2009, 11:19 PM Post #4 |
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I have replace the gasket between the trans and the pump in my 149. The hardest part about doing the job was getting the bolts out of the foot rest. Best thing to do is follow the instructions in a service manual for your model Cub Cadet. Binder Books http://www.binderbooks.com/ is a great source for service manuals if you don't have one. Service manual has instructions on how to remove the rear end safely from your Cub. Some have change the gasket with the rear end still in the tractor. I wouldn't recomend doing that way because of the risk of getting dirt inside the pump-rear end. I did use gasket sealer on the gasket. This would be a good time to remove the rear end cover and drain/clean the rear end out. Trans-rear end will take 7 quarts of Hy-Tran Ultra to fill it. |
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| Skip | Feb 28 2009, 11:26 PM Post #5 |
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Warhog Id say you could change it in the tractor, but Like dale said you run the risk of trash in the pump. also like mentioned clean out the rear. I get about 4 spray cans of carb cleaner and a bunch of rags. The top of the tranny will need to come off and I fill threw that cover also. Like mentioned, time to change the roll pins and flex disk. Remember this is the bigest part of the tractor, nxt to the eng. Be as clean as you can, you dont want dirt in the system. Let us know how you do :High5 |
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| R Bedell | Mar 1 2009, 07:49 AM Post #6 |
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Warhog: YUP..as previously mentioned, there are basically two ways to change this gasket. Method 1 - Remove the rearend from tractor. Then rotate the pump until it is at the 12 o'clock position. Unblot the pump and change the gasket. Reverse your order and away you go. This way you don't have to drain the hydro fluid. Method 2 - Simply drain all the oil, & remove the pump, change the gasket, and reverse your order. Install new fluid, filter & rear cover gasket, and away you go. Just depends on if you want to drain the oil or not. :thumbsup |
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| Warhog | Mar 1 2009, 11:07 AM Post #7 |
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Yep....................they were a bear to get out I had to use a air hammer to get them loose, lots of rust and crud, all parts survived the removal process. 67Hydro If you could please send me a copy to my e mail akman@hickorytech.net thanks, that will help out allot. I will looking at it again today to see if I will drop the rear end or pull the part, I have the tools but I just put new hy tran fluid in not long ago so I am leaning on not draining the fluid bit I will see if it is going to be a bear like removing the foot board screws or a simple removal and install of the transmission. Thanks for all the help I will let you know how this all plays out. |
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| Matt G. | Mar 1 2009, 12:16 PM Post #8 |
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MTD allows you to download most operator's and service manuals for free: http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/public/list.jsp?BrandCode=10051 |
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| RChristensen | Mar 1 2009, 01:54 PM Post #9 |
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Warhog Trying to save time I pulled a 169 rear end without removing the hydro fluid and just tipped the rear end on the back. When I came out in the morning I found fluid all over, I had forgotten the air breather in the top of the rear end. Now I always drain all of the fluid before I start. Another thing I would caution you to do is be sure that is the only leak. It's not uncommon for other seals to be leaking too due to the age of these tractors and you don't want to go through this seal replacement and get it back together and find another seal is leaking. BTDT.
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| Yosemite Sam | Mar 1 2009, 08:34 PM Post #10 |
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To me pulling the REA is the easiest, then pressure wash it, or take it to car wash and wash it. They run so much better when they can stay cool., and they are so much easier to work on when they're clean. Then replace the gasket, put it back in and adjust the forward/reverse linkage. If it should still leak or if there is another leak somewhere, drips will show up on the floor quickly. Then you will probably find that the O rings in the release valves are bad. Edited by Yosemite Sam, Mar 1 2009, 08:43 PM.
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| POWERSTROKE | Mar 2 2009, 02:17 PM Post #11 |
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I'm not a big fan of using pressure washers on equipment but when I replaced the cork seal in My 129 I used a whole can of GUNK foaming engine cleaner to clean the whole rear end with, then blasted it with the nozzle on the garden hose, then blew it dry. The new cork seals have pressure sensitive adhesive on them on one side....maybe You could wipe a SMALL VERY thin layer of Hylomar or something on the other side, but be careful of dirt, etc getting into the hydro. I didn't have any problems with the rear end IN the tractor, makes it easier to roll around. But on a WF You definitely want the fenders off. And as a shameful PLUG I'd PM Richard C. for one of His neopreme gaskets. Yes, the cork gasket has lasted 25-30 yrs but actually it's such a very poor gasket material, especially in that application. And Richard is still doing the durability testing on His gaskets. Correct Me if I'm wrong Richard but it's what? 5-6 yrs and counting? |
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| RChristensen | Mar 3 2009, 01:19 AM Post #12 |
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You got me thinking and I went back and checked and I know I have been using the neopreme gaskets since 2003, maybe had some before that, but thats when I started posting the information. I haven't had one leak yet, probably because if the neopreme does anything when exposed to hydro fluid it will expand. All of the cork gaskets that have leaked on me had shrunk or collapsed. One problem that I have noticed with the neopreme is where it is exposed to the elements it will eventually crack, probably due to the high heat here in Arizona. I suppose if the cork gasket is exposed to the elements it too will deteriorate after 6 years. Here is a picture of a leaking cork gasket I removed and the Neopreme replacement I made.
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| Drysumpjet | Mar 3 2009, 02:26 PM Post #13 |
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Somewhere I noticed a service bulletin for later CCC Cubs that indicated the lower drain hole from the hydrostatic assembly to the rear axle assembly is eliminated. This is where the cork gasket has the least amount of sealing area. The bulletin went on to say that the oil return is accomplished by passing thru the output roller bearing of the hydrostatic assembly. In the quest to improve anything to our old cubs, has anybody considered plugging these holes off like the newer versions? Benefits would be for surface area for an upgraded gasket to prevent future leaks and more oil flow thru the hydrostatic output shaft bearing. Thoughts? |
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| Warhog | Mar 11 2009, 08:21 PM Post #14 |
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WooHoo.................replaced seal and it is good to go, pulled the rearend our and cleaned the whole area really good put it back together, I still have to adjust the linkage a little but overall an easy project. Thanks for all the help and information it feels good to turn a wrench again I really missed it. Thanks for all the help, now there is a few other projects I have to do, as I have the maintenance manual and the tractor needs a little more work to get everything running a little smoother. |
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| Warhog | Mar 11 2009, 08:27 PM Post #15 |
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I pulled the gasket and it looked o.k. it was not torn just oil soaked but it was compressed pretty good, the new one was thicker and had a sticky backing on it, I am not sure I would want to plug the holes up as the oil cools the parts without looking at schematic of the axle. |
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