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| Time For Paint; What does everyone recommend | |
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| Topic Started: Feb 17 2008, 05:58 PM (582 Views) | |
| scooter6529 | Feb 17 2008, 05:58 PM Post #1 |
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Soon I'll be ready to paint my 100. I was curious what everyone recommends for paint application. Example ( Spray gun ) Do you clear coat the tractors? Also I was wondering how do you get all the nuts and bolts to look so nice. Are they painted before assembly and then touched up after assembly. Thanks, Scooter |
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| dyt4000 | Feb 17 2008, 08:51 PM Post #2 |
Cub Cadet 109
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DR Bailey might be able to help you there...he just painted his... |
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| Merk | Feb 17 2008, 09:07 PM Post #3 |
Merk
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I've used spray cans and used a spray gun. Spray can paint was purchased from TSC and a Case-IH dealer that sells Cub Cadets. I would use TSC paint as my base coat and the Cub Cadet Yellow and White as my top coat. TSC paint cost 50% to 60% less than Cub Cadet paint did. Here is the tractor I did that too: I used a HVLP (high volume low pressure) spray gun on my 100. This was the first time I used this style spray gun. Paint I used was acrylic emamal. A good friend that's been painting cars-tractors for 20 plus years suggested this type of paint because it was easy to shoot and holds up well. It was easy to mix if you had a measuring cup. Here is the tractor I used acrylic emamal paint on:  I didn't clear coat....extra cost-extra steps to do. I used this way to paint nuts and bolts:  I did have to touch a few bolt heads after the were installed. I used a fine model's paint brush to do touch ups. Nuts were hung on a wire hook. I'll let you be the judge on which one looks better:   From left to right: Factory paint-acrylic emamal paint-spray can paint. I will paint any future Cubs with acrylic emamal paint. The cost may be higher. The finish looks better to me. Prep work is the key to a good paint job. Most of my 100 was sand blasted-or paint was removed with a paint stripper. I luck out and have a someone who restore tractors that lives 20 miles from me. He did some of my sand blasting. I have another friend who wanted 2 small motors rebuild....I traded sand blasting for rebuilding motors. I used a sandable primer-filler to fill in the small spots. Everything was wet sanded-I used 220 to 1000 grit sand paper. Once I was happy with the surface I wipe the part down with a tac rag and a paint prep solution. :wwp: when you start laying paint on your 100. |
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| DrBailey | Feb 17 2008, 10:04 PM Post #4 |
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It sounds like Merk and I went to the same school. I also use a variety of paints and applications. I paint most of the bolts and nuts. If I skin the paint or use a new bolt . I use a small (hobby type) paint brush to touch up. |
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| woodworking cub | Feb 19 2008, 07:31 PM Post #5 |
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Hay, Merk WOW!!! Nice line-up of cubs!! Thats a real nice looking 100. :Thumbsup Latter :) |
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| Merk | Feb 19 2008, 08:19 PM Post #6 |
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Merk
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Thanks Woodworking Cub. :Thumbsup All 3 Cubs are set up to pull a plow at plow days. My Wife likes to plow with the 100. My Son plows with the 86 and I plow with the 149. I have 3 cubs that still need restored. They are a 800-70 and a 70/100 tractor with no motor. The 70/100 tractor may become a puller. The 800 and 70 will be a stock rebuild. |
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| Johnson_John1982 | Mar 12 2009, 05:10 PM Post #7 |
One Unlucky Member #
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When restoring nuts and bolts..how you prep them is the key. NEVER paint over top of old paint on a bolt or nut! Given the right preperation procedure, this works fine on sheet metal and SOMETIMES cast iron. Due to the tight fit of the socket, wreches, impact etc.. you take a chance on chipping it off. Im a huge fan of starting with bare metal (if you cant tell), the chemicals involved in todays products is far superior to old stuff.. If a customer of ours prefers that we reuse the period correct bolts (original equipment) we use glass bead to remove any old material, then clean the threads with a die. the key to keeping material on the head is a good primer and a thin layer of paint. --I EMPHASIZE THIN-- If you get it too thick you are more likely to chip it.. (The socket/wrench never touches the bolt head or nut snug enough to take off thin layers) Diffrent methods work in different ways, and you may not want to go through the trouble..Just my 2 cents. |
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