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| Paint Removal; What does everyone recommend ? | |
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| Topic Started: Feb 3 2008, 10:09 PM (816 Views) | |
| scooter6529 | Feb 3 2008, 10:09 PM Post #1 |
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I'm restoring my 100 and was wondering what is recommended and what is the easiest way of removing the paint. Thanks, Scooter |
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| R Bedell | Feb 4 2008, 06:42 AM Post #2 |
Admin
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Scooter: You might try this...Paint I have used the following in conjunction with sanding: *Lacquer Thinner *Acetone *Oven Cleaner *Conventional Strippers *Torch |
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| IAfarmer | Nov 15 2008, 10:25 PM Post #3 |
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I have painted many a tractor just using a wire brush and some light sanding. They weren't show tractors though. |
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| cub108 | Nov 16 2008, 12:56 AM Post #4 |
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Just finished a 108 restore, and took the advice of a friend who paints for a living. Removed all loose and cracked paint back to metal, after using oven cleaner on surfaces, then primed well to bring paint to level surface to that I was not removing, then sprayed with finish coat, and a sealer coat of clear. It came out good. First question, is always , Why didn't you strip it all? Reason: original finish was baked on . I did not have this luxury , and had to use air dry paint. If I had gone to all raw metal, it would have looked great, but anytime something rubed it, or bumped it, it would scrape very easy. Just my two cents, but I am no paint expert. Good luck with the project. |
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| Merk | Nov 16 2008, 07:47 PM Post #5 |
Merk
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My choice to remove paint is sandblasting. It is the best way to remove rust. Before:  after sandblasting:  parts after primer:  100 that I finished in October 2007. This one was sandblasted before paint: 
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| DrBailey | Nov 17 2008, 11:57 AM Post #6 |
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Merk , thats a beautiful CC scooter , I agree with Merk about the sand blasting. I carry out the large parts to a local monument company for blasting. they are reasonable and most appreciate the extra work. The smaller parts, I glass bead blast in my blaster.
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| Merk | Nov 17 2008, 04:46 PM Post #7 |
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Merk
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Thanks Doc :Thanks I have around $85 in having parts sandblasted. That includes an extra hood for another 70, 100 or maybe an 140-160 and a 12 inch Brinly plow. :Shhh Thinking about building a slightly modified plowing tractor to compete with my Son's hot rod 86. Best thing about taking parts to this Gent that does sandblasting, is I may have a couple of Cubs to restore and get paid to restore them. |
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| Johnson_John1982 | Mar 5 2009, 05:35 PM Post #8 |
One Unlucky Member #
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For all of your cast parts, Id recommend a grinder with a wire brush cup attached. Its high speed will remove any old paint with out affecting the cast finish. The individual wires will get down into the small cracks and force out unwanted material. If you have access to an air compressor, Id look into purchasing a small IR obital sander. You can purchase individual sanding disc from a local autobody supply store. Using an 80grit disk you can remove old paint from your sheet metal pieces without heating up the metal (possibly distorting it) or creating unwanted scraches. If you choose to have someone blast your parts..if possible, you should ask for glass beads. Alot of places use Black Beauty Coal Slag, at a low pressure its great for cast parts or thick sheet metal. More than likely if you go to a monument company (they tend to use high pressure) you could take a chance on your parts getting damaged, or the coal slag may cause you more work (its highly abrasive at high pressures) If you have any more questions regarding media blasting, shoot me an email.. |
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| JMD | Mar 7 2009, 07:20 PM Post #9 |
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Most Important wear a respirator,save your lungs also when painting JMD |
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| Mlamar | Mar 11 2009, 10:47 AM Post #10 |
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I always wear safety glasses. A drop of splashed thinner can mess up an eye real quick. I have always found sandblasting to work best for me. When you add the expense of wire wheels, paint strippers, gloves, labor and so on sandblasting is not a bad deal (and I even send mine out to have it done). I really like the surface of sandblasted metal for a good etch primer/sealer bond. I think that the red primer works best for Cub Cadet yellow. I requires less paint to get the proper shade. The best part is doing a great job and keeping these older IH Cub Cadets going for many more years. They don't make like that anymore. Edited by Mlamar, Mar 11 2009, 10:48 AM.
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