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| Help With Paint; what type of paint to use | |
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| Topic Started: Jan 28 2008, 10:57 PM (664 Views) | |
| scooter6529 | Jan 28 2008, 10:57 PM Post #1 |
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I was just wondering if someone could recommend what would be the most durable paint to use and still look good. I don't have the most experience in painting so if someone has some good tips it would be really appreaciated. Thanks, Scooter |
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| dyt4000 | Jan 29 2008, 11:36 AM Post #2 |
Cub Cadet 109
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I wish I had some tips for you...well, one comes to mind... I've always been told that it doesn't matter what paint you use if you don't prep it good. I don't think prep can be understated. Maybe some of the true paint artists will help out with this... |
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| 70chevelle | Mar 30 2008, 12:35 PM Post #3 |
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If you are using a spray rig (gun and compressor) the automotive acrylic urethanes are simple to mix, pretty easy to spray, and very durable. I sprayed acrylic enamel for years (early 80's) with good results, but my preference now is AU. A very reasonable paint line is PPG's Omni. Just remember that yellow is terrible for coverage, make sure you get enough paint. |
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| Merk | Mar 30 2008, 02:00 PM Post #4 |
Merk
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Along with 70 Chevelle recomendation I would look into a HVLP spray gun. I painted my last tractor with a HVLP spray gun and I am hooked. |
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| 70chevelle | Mar 31 2008, 10:47 AM Post #5 |
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A little more info about HVLP, compliant, and conventional type spray guns. An HVLP is supposed to have a 'transfer efficiency' (te) rating (% of paint that actually ends up on the surface your painting) of 65% with 10 psi at the air cap. If you increase the psi at the air cap, you lose te, and are probably now using a compliant gun. A compliant gun has a better te than a conventional spray gun. HVLP & compliant guns came about due to governmental requirements to reduce harmful vapors. ie: the more paint that stays on the substrate, the less that's airborn. The true benefit(s) to these guns, imho, are that the manufacturers developed better ways to atomize the paint (aside from increased pressure), which helps any paint job. The negative, if you're used to spraying with a conventional gun, is you need to slow down. The HVLP gun isn't putting out paint at the same rate. This is helpful to new painters as they should encounter less run's, but may increase dry spray, where the paint is a little textured or dull, especially on large projects. This can be overcome by increasing the pressure at the aircap. It's nice to have work-arounds. I use all three types of guns. I normally use a conventional to spray primer, to ensure I don't get anything in my finish guns that's not supposed to be there. I use my HVLP for base coats and my compliant gun for single stage and clear coats. As an aside, I would highly recommend a gravity feed gun. (cup on top) They are much more efficient at getting every last drop of paint out of the cup as compared to a siphon feed gun with the cup on the bottom. The draw back is the cup is right in your normal line of sight when your painting. |
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| yard farmer | Apr 8 2008, 09:45 PM Post #6 |
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Is there any special compressor you must have fo these, or will about any work? thanks :Huh2 |
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| dyt4000 | Apr 9 2008, 04:36 AM Post #7 |
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Cub Cadet 109
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Just about any compressor will do since painting doesn't take near as much air as say a impact wrench. But you DO want a filter on the line before the gun. You don't want any moisture or oil coming through. |
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| 70chevelle | Apr 9 2008, 02:03 PM Post #8 |
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Yes and no! HVLP guns need a compressor that produces decent CFM (12-16 cfm @ 35-50 psi) Conventional and compliant are much more compressor friendly, and don't need near as much air. That being said, for the size of the parts we spray, you should just be sure to let the compressor 'catch up' after each panel. If the compressor can't keep up and the pressure drops at the cap, the paint won't atomize well, and your finish will be far from acceptable. Since we're speaking of compressors, here's a few notes: 1) Unless it is your only choice, (or it's a pancake compressor for nail guns), direct drive compressors aren't worth purchasing. Why? - They run at high rpms, which is obnoxiously loud and creates a ton of heat which inturn creates moisture - They are normally oilless. With the high rpms and no oil, the compression rings wear quickly, take even longer for tank recovery and create even more wear. - They are very inefficient (They don't produce much cfm) 2) A bigger tank doesn't necessarily mean a bigger compressor - An 80 gal tank with a compressor that produces 10 cfm will take much longer to refill than a 20 cfm unit. Therefore it will run longer and create more heat, moisture, wear and tear. It's important to get an efficiently paired unit. 3) A single stage compressor compresses the air once before it enters the tank. They work well for homeowners if you don't plan on using air hog or multiple tools. I painted many cars with my single stage 60 gal Sanborn compressor I got from Sam's for $350. 4) A dual stage compressor compresses the air twice before it enters the tank. How do you tell? There will be copper lines (normally) that run from one cylinder (larger) to another cylinder (small) and then to the tank. Usually the cutoff pressure for a dual stage is 175, where a single stage is 125-135. 5) If you look for a used unit, which are normally pretty cheap, make sure you don't get stuck with a 3 phase unit. (normally an industrial/commercial style compressor) A new true 5hp 1 phase motor will cost a lot. $4-$500 6) The most important spec on any compressor is the CFM. Not hp, tank size, or SCFM. These are all marketing ploys. The hp ratings are normally PEAK, not running (a TRUE 5hp motor will be rated at around 23 amps), the big tanks with low cfm producing head units are to appeal to the Tim Taylor types (Anyone here not fit that description?) the SCFM is actually the volume of air that the head unit contains, and has nothing to do with how much air the unit produces. I lucked out and found an 80 gal industrial Speedaire unit sitting in a driveway, that had already been converted to a 1 phase GE motor. I had some refurbing to do, but it works like a champ. |
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| dyt4000 | Apr 9 2008, 02:51 PM Post #9 |
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Cub Cadet 109
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Good grief 70! You know a thing or two about compressors!!! :blink: |
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