Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]




Please Register on our new Site

Please make NO new Postings to this site

Welcome to Only Cub Cadets!. We hope you enjoy your visit.

You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are some features you can't use. If you join our community, you'll be able to access member-only sections, and use many member-only features such as customizing your profile, sending personal messages, and voting in polls. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free.

Join our community!

If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Username:   Password:
Add Reply
Molboard plow set up
Topic Started: Mar 22 2007, 08:29 PM (3,382 Views)

I have a Brinley plow and it works ok I just think it's not set up right. Does anybody have any insight to how it's supposed to be adjusted (set)?
It plows good sometimes but sometimes it will kinda float on top of the ground.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
Wild Bill
Member Avatar

First off, I will suggest e-mailing Brinly-Hardy, and request a manual for a 8"/10"/12" moldboard plow for a sleeve hitch...http://www.brinly.com/ I did a couple of years ago, and they sent me a copy of the 12" plow manual for FREE :Thumbsup The manual has set-up directions, adjustments, plowing tips, and a parts diagram.

Next, the plow is designed cut 1/2 as deep as it's width....if you have a 8" plow, it is designed to plow 4" deep, 10" is designed to plow at 5", etc.....

An easy way to set the plow to run level, is to put the lower bracket sleeve hitch pins in the middle hole of the IH lower bracket, and put the pin through the 2nd hole of the lift straps of the sleeve hitch (make sure you are using floating lift straps!) Next, attach the plow to the hitch. Then park the tractor on a level surface (garage floor) and then jack the left side of the tractor up and place 2x4's/plywood etc. under the left side tires until you have the same distance as the plow is designed to go (5" etc)..this simulates the plow being in the furrow. Then adjust the depth handle until the 'heel' of the plow is flat on the floor. At that time you are -REALLY- close to having the plow dialed in!! There will be minor adjustments you will need to make to the depth handle, and the coulter, depending on soil type and conditions.

I did the ol' 2x4/plywood trick, and my 12" plow pulls like a dream!....so easy a 13 year old boy plowed like a pro, even though it was his first time!
Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

BTW: I had taken the coulter off this time because the corn stubble/roots had clogged the plow at the coulter. You should run the coulter though, as it saves wear on the leading edge of the moldboard.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top

Thanks WB, that should get me close enough to do my little garden.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
Member Avatar

Here is a few things I run into while trying to get plow to work right.
Soil condiations:
Is the soil too dry?
Are you trying to plow an area that was used as a pathway?
Soil compaction can be a problem. I've used manure and compost to help loosen the soil.

What condiation is your plow share in. There should be a gap on the cutting edge behind the point like the picture below has. Gap is 2 to 3 inches behind point on the cutting edge.
Posted Image
If there is little to no gap the plow will be hard to go dig into the soil. Brinly has replacement plow share you can purchase. My Homelite plow needed the plow share replaced last year. Plow share is NLA. Share was build up by welding using hard surface rod.
Middle hole in lower IH lower bracket is a good place to start when setting your plow. I will try all 3 holes to find the best one for my tractor. I have one tractor that works the best in the bottom hole. My Dad's 2 tractors work the best in the top hole.
I try to set the lift strapes so the pin is in the middle of the slot when plowing.

Beside the landslide/heel riding on the bottom of the furrow it should against the side of the furrow as the picture shows.
Posted Image
Brinly's manual has good instructions on how to set landslide/heel. When landslide/heel is set correctly the plow will run parallel with tractor.

I will not plow without a coulter. Brinly's coulter set up could use some improvement. The fork thats holds the coulter needs to be angle up towards the frame more for clearance. Fork is a good catcher of trash, corn stalks, roots ect. My Home Lite plow has the coulter mount in a more upright position as shown in the picture.
Posted Image

The pin connecting the plow to sleeve hitch on my set up doesn't stick out no more than a 1/2 inch below the bottom of the plow hitch. Most pins stick out 1 to 1 1/2 inches below the bottom of the plow hitch. Bean straw and corn stalks will catch on pin and pile up causing your tractor to loose traction or plug the plow.

Best way to dial in your plow is to find somewhere to plow and try different things. I change one thing at a time so I know if I improved the way the plow works. I'm still learning the finer points of setting a plow. I will put an ad in local newspaper looking for gardens to plow. I will try different things while plowing a customer's garden. Best thing is I get paid to have fun with my Cub.

I try to go to 4-6 plow days every year. I hope to see you at a plow day.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
DealsFor.me - The best sales, coupons, and discounts for you
« Previous Topic · Implements and Attachments · Next Topic »
Add Reply

Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, & do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc.

All images and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.com. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.

Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, Spirit of 76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 109, 111, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1912, 1914.

Tractor Links