ACecil
Replies: 6

ACecil
Replies: 0

weaverama
Replies: 17

R Bedell
Replies: 0

Diz Jr.
Replies: 2

Well finally getting warm, a little to get out side, give my 123 a run, got most of mechanical work done over winter, seems to be in good working order.I have sure learned alot this winter about the machine. Phil. :American Flag

Hey guys. Let me start out by saying this web site is awsome. Its nice to have a place to go and look at the other stuff thats out there and maybe get a new idea or two.

Ive had my cadet now for 17 years. I have never been able to get a actual ID on the year and model. We Grandpa bought he was told it was a 72 and when I picked up some part last spring they said it was a 69. Any way its now sitting in the shop completly broke down to re painted and motor gone through. But I found the numbers on the tag o motor and the number stamped into the rearend. Just trying to get some info on this tractor. I plan on building a loader for it and would like to see if there is a pto that goes on this unit or if I am going to have to design something for it. My mower deck is shot. Pulleys have worn out and now one here in Minnesota can get me part.(so the tell me.) So I found your great site and thought maybe someone here can help.

Numbers on motor tag
K-241A-1001841
Spec # 46611D


Numbers on stamped in Rearend on a raised block 112780
Numbers forged in casting are 38508R1
L2

I thank you all for taking the time to read and post here.
Dave
BS ACRES. :Cub6 what my machine looks like. except it has a homemade fenders in rear

I noticed when I was running the tractor that the front axel had some play underneath where the pin comes out of the back where it comes through the frame.
Now that I have the tractor torn down I removed the axel. The pin was tight where it goes through the front of the frame and tight through the axel. but is ovaled out on the back end of the frame. It dosn't appear like it should be this way. I was thinking a fix could be to weld a couple of 5/8 ID washers to the frame. Are there any other fixes?
Thanks Jeff

The 782 I bought has low compression.One cylinder is 90lbs and the other has 30 lbs of compression.My questions are. Is it possible to be related to just head gaskets?Next is it possible to be just in need of new rings.Next can the rings be replaced without pulling the motor.And is it going to need more than rings. Thanks for any help.

Well fellows I chose to go with the 124 to work garden with instead of 1000. I will still restore the 1000 later.I need to know a couple of things about using turn plow.Do I need to keep the lift lock botton depressed for the plow will float along?What gear do most of you plow in?I also have a Brinley cultivator that has the small chisel plows .What are some things that i can do with it?

I found the original oporaters manual for a 149, 1A tiller, and the 149's deck. all of them are in great shape! (what would you expect? no manuals every get used around here. everything is brand new!) What tractors would the 1A fit? I have a manual for a 1, that went on my grandpas narrow frame (he sold it before my parents knew about each other). If the 1A fits on a 149, that would make my day. we have three tillers that fit on it. on is in parts the others are fully intact. (worn out though). if somebody could tell me that would be appreciated. Thanks

I removed the steering wheel from the 1200 today. that method of the bolt and hammer works great! then pulled the column. cleaned exterior using Brakleen. Took the jam nuts of the big bolt, took that plate out. removed cam follower. washed cam follower, that plate, and the gasket holder in varsol. (gasket was toast. so it got discarded) then I took off the big plug on the bottom, and removed the shaft. cleaned the shaft in varsol and recovered 14 ball bearings. washed the balls, both washers from the shaft, and the plug. have not cleaned out the actual box yet. here are the parts, cleaned.
This is the shaft. it is worn in many places. cut my finger along the groove.



The cam follower is in horrid shape. worn in about 3 milimeters on one side, about two on the other. some of the threads are broken. the head is missing a fair bit of material (found in the grease)




And the plate. judging from what I have read, the paint being worn off is good. my dad and I verified that it is straight. not warped.

There are 14 in this picture. notice the second one in on the right? it is actually that small!


These are the washers that were on the top and bottom of the steering shaft in the box.

The second bearing race on the steering shaft is worn out and almost not even there.
I am getting a new cam follower from brian miller.
I need a new gasket.
Anything anyone has to say would be appreciated.
Thanks!

Well, I could've sworn it was a 128 when I looked at it last summer but this weekend I went back to take a second look and it is a 108, complete, for $25. How was I going to say no. The engine was suspect so I also picked up a K301 with 8 hours run time on her for a song. A buddy of mine thinks the 10hp can be brought back to life.

The question is, if the K241 is dead and I swap in the K301, is it a sin to re-badge it a 128??? You guys won't tell on me will ya?

I'll get some pics in a few weeks, I left it down in Virginia at my buddy's and won't get back down for ahwile. All in all it was a good weekend.

Rich

Going to replace linkage on 123 Hydro, back to the Hydro. I did all the adjustments, but still creeps in reverse, no big deal, but want it right. This will be a good learning experience for me. Had apart already, I just got to order parts.

Phil.

:American Flag

I got it all back together yesterday and drove the tractor up the driveway. I replaced and repaired several wires and connectors at the earlier advice that many carb issues are electrical. The tractor ran fine under load going up my steep driveway. But it went right back to surging on the way back down. I find that I can hold the throttle valve open by hand and it runs great. However it surges because the governor arm keeps pulling the throttle open and closed. The carb has been rebuilt. Can someone tell me if the governor or linkage can be adjusted to correct the problem of surging or is it still a carb issue?

I freed up the clutch plates no problem. However I noticed that I did not have any 3rd gear. So I looked at the clutch and the main spring is broken in a couple spots and I am not getting any pressure on the clutch arm. I am going to have to take out the clutch assembly and replace this spring. Any tips or things to look for in doing this job? Any other parts I should replace, bearing, etc?

I changed the oil but the oil plug has been cross threaded in the past and is now leaking. Is this standard pipe thread? My thought is to buy the proper tap and refresh the threads in the engine and buy a new plug. Any tips on this?

I modified the front frame installation which still does not provide enough clearance to remove and install the drive belt. However I put some longer bolts in the rear two holes on this frame. So when it comes time to change the belt I simply have to loosen the four bolts and can tip the whole frame forward to allow clearance for the belt. If I find that I am doing frequent belt changes I will cut a notch in the frame to allow clearance for the PTO actuator lever. I still don't understand this design. It simply makes no sense. I did check the engine mount position and it is in the right position. The crank seems to be the proper length. But it just doesn't work right.

I removed my ignition switch and brought it to the cub dealer. They had a key for $5. So I reinstalled the switch and got it all wired up so it is back to working properly!

I cleaned my fuel filter as I had some sediment in the bowl. I took off the filter screen and blew it out with carb cleaner. Then I reinstalled and it didn't immediately start to fill with fuel. So I cranked the engine and fuel started to fill the bowl. Is that normal or should the fuel be pouring in there more easily? I don't think this is the cause of my surging problem as I can basically over ride the governor arm and get it to run fine so it is able to draw enough fuel when demanded. But I may need to re-flush the fuel tank?

I removed a lot of caked on grease on the frame and steering linkage. I could get grease into one of the steering knuckles but not the other. I will have to disassemble that knuckle to remove old grease and get the fitting to work so I can keep it greased. I will also have to try to grease and adjust the steering gear as there is a good bit of play. I will probably do that when I am working on getting the drive shaft out.

I removed the old choke cable which was a bit of a pain getting up under the dash. I need to replace the whole assembly as the outer casing is split and the knob is gone. For now I can easily manipulate the choke from the seat by reaching forward. Eventually I would like a new cable. Any tips on where to purchase a replacement assembly? It was $32 at the Cub dealer which seemed a bit dear for a choke cable.

I adjusted the brake which works great!

I adjusted the seat back a little for more leg room.

So my next projects are the clutch assembly repair and figuring out the carb and surging problem. Thank you everyone for reading my postings and your great advice!