Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
Welcome to Oklahoma Vw Cruisers. We hope you enjoy your visit.


You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are some features you can't use. If you join our community, you'll be able to access member-only sections, and use many member-only features such as customizing your profile, sending personal messages, and voting in polls. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free.


Join our community!


If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Username:   Password:
Add Reply
Timing woes
Topic Started: Oct 14 2006, 02:35 PM (2,038 Views)
BAM
Member Avatar
Advanced Member
[ *  *  * ]
vdubjim
Oct 30 2006, 10:16 PM
Mike Ritchey
Oct 30 2006, 07:14 AM
I don't know if it is knocking or pinging or whatever but it is when the engine is warm and pulling up a hill, it would make this sound when trying to accelerate. Higher octane fuel helped a bit and hot temperatures made it worse. It seems to be under control now, though.

that is pinging, try higher octane fuel AND/OR turn down the timing a bit.

just retard the timing. high ocatane is not a fix and the engine will run hotter..
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
jr built
Member Avatar
Advanced Member
[ *  *  * ]
Mike Ritchey
Oct 15 2006, 07:59 PM
At 0* and 7.5*, the car runs fine but won't start unless I roll it down the driveway. At 10*, it will start if it is warm but not when it is cold. I found the number ZV/PAU 4R5 on the distributor and on the site you mentioned. It suggests 10* but I will have to advance it further just to get it to start when it is cold. The points are pretty new and I adjusted them yesterday to .016.

I got it adjusted now to about 15*BTDC. It isn't knocking at all but it seems to have lost some power on the low end. We'll see how it starts in the morning when it is cold.

Is it possible that the distributor itself is just past it's prime and needs to be replaced?

i'll bring it to you since you wont go look PLEASE READ
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
jr built
Member Avatar
Advanced Member
[ *  *  * ]
Mike Ritchey
Oct 16 2006, 01:52 PM
It started just fine this morning with the 15* setting. If it isn't knocking, will it be okay till I get around to replacing it? I still want to get my spare engine case over to Eddie to see if it can be built into a nice engine. Just gotta wait a little more on the money.

here is the one that shows that it starts fine at 15* and i still say valve adjust i just want to help and unless you dont know how to adj valves it wont hurt
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Mike Ritchey
Member Avatar
Permanoob
[ *  *  * ]
The valves have been adjusted correctly. I think I will just start over with gapping or replacing the plugs, check points, valves and timing. There are some pretty old bits on this car I think the carb, coil and dizzy are all original.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
BAM
Member Avatar
Advanced Member
[ *  *  * ]
jr built
Nov 4 2006, 12:40 AM
Mike Ritchey
Oct 15 2006, 07:59 PM
At 0* and 7.5*, the car runs fine but won't start unless I roll it down the driveway. At 10*, it will start if it is warm but not when it is cold. I found the number ZV/PAU 4R5 on the distributor and on the site you mentioned. It suggests 10* but I will have to advance it further just to get it to start when it is cold. The points are pretty new and I adjusted them yesterday to .016.

I got it adjusted now to about 15*BTDC. It isn't knocking at all but it seems to have lost some power on the low end. We'll see how it starts in the morning when it is cold.

Is it possible that the distributor itself is just past it's prime and needs to be replaced?

i'll bring it to you since you wont go look PLEASE READ

I can read thanks. it says hard to start when COLD not hot. tight valves will not close when HOT and make it hard to start but it will turn over fast. :rolleyes:

like I said... doesn't sound like the valves are the problem. and with him saying its pinging that would tell me the timing is too advanced.
weak coil or ignition components can add to this also. and use ONLY bosch points/ condensers.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
jr built
Member Avatar
Advanced Member
[ *  *  * ]
bam your wrong about tight valves sorry to burst it and there are many things it could be but i know valves are very easy to adjust and cheep and to top it off its routine maintenance here i will make a list of things to do 1st check valves 2nd adj timing 7* at idle will do fine and then it should start 3rd adjust carb if it wont idle and run without pinging you have other problems if that wont get you back on the road you know eddie can fix it or i can fix it for free let me know mike it will only take about five minnutes to figure it out and i would be glad to help
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Eddie Imp
Member Avatar
Advanced Member
[ *  *  * ]
jr built
Nov 5 2006, 12:08 AM
bam your wrong about tight valves sorry to burst it and there are many things it could be but i know valves are very easy to adjust and cheep and to top it off its routine maintenance here i will make a list of things to do 1st check valves 2nd adj timing 7* at idle will do fine and then it should start 3rd adjust carb if it wont idle and run without pinging you have other problems if that wont get you back on the road you know eddie can fix it or i can fix it for free let me know mike it will only take about five minnutes to figure it out and i would be glad to help

FREE???? Man your cheap... LOL Ohh was all that one sentence JR??
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
BAM
Member Avatar
Advanced Member
[ *  *  * ]
jr built
Nov 5 2006, 12:08 AM
bam your wrong about tight valves sorry to burst it and there are many things it could be but i know valves are very easy to adjust and cheep and to top it off its routine maintenance here i will make a list of things to do 1st check valves 2nd adj timing 7* at idle will do fine and then it should start 3rd adjust carb if it wont idle and run without pinging you have other problems if that wont get you back on the road you know eddie can fix it or i can fix it for free let me know mike it will only take about five minnutes to figure it out and i would be glad to help

are you kidding me? valves out of adjustment cause pinging??? or the engine to turn over slow??? Who are you?
burst my bubble all you want it sounds like you don't have a clue what your talking about. :rolleyes:
Eddie please help. this guy is rediculous.


FYI----
when a VW valves are too tight the valves do not close. yes in this case it won't start but it wil TURN OVER VERY FAST BECAUSE OF LACK OF COMPRESSION....
when they are too loose it will still start but be noisy....
when the car turns over very slow with a good battery and a good starter and good connections and cables...------- The timing is too advanced.... period.



read a book JR or something. you have no clue. and do yourself a favor and don't try to dis me on this forum. Thanks,
BAM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
jr built
Member Avatar
Advanced Member
[ *  *  * ]
calm down your all over the place all i was trying to say is valves are tightest when its cold i just want to help if im wrong slap my hand but calm down i dont want to dis you and if you need to know who i am im the guy that wont say i know unless i do ive only worked on cars for about 16 years and ive had my hands on vw power for 10 years if thats not enough you can ask eddie if i might know what im talking about we parted ways 3 weeks ago i worked for him for a year and a half point is this ant no spring chicken
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
vdubjim
Member Avatar
Administrator
[ *  *  * ]
thought valves were tightest when hot???
hence why you adjust them when cold.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
BAM
Member Avatar
Advanced Member
[ *  *  * ]
jr built
Nov 5 2006, 05:39 AM
calm down your all over the place all i was trying to say is valves are tightest when its cold i just want to help if im wrong slap my hand but calm down i dont want to dis you and if you need to know who i am im the guy that wont say i know unless i do ive only worked on cars for about 16 years and ive had my hands on vw power for 10 years if thats not enough you can ask eddie if i might know what im talking about we parted ways 3 weeks ago i worked for him for a year and a half point is this ant no spring chicken

no guy. valves when hot will have less clearance than a cold engine.

you my friend are confused.

if you own an aircooled go measure the valves when cold.... you should have somewhere around .006" depending on application.
now drive the bitch for an hour.
check the valve clearance.
if your lucky you will still have around .003" so your valves won't be floating.

lesson 2 will be tomorrow.
;)
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
BAM
Member Avatar
Advanced Member
[ *  *  * ]
jr built
Nov 5 2006, 12:08 AM
bam your wrong about tight valves sorry to burst it and there are many things it could be but i know valves are very easy to adjust and cheep and to top it off its routine maintenance here i will make a list of things to do 1st check valves 2nd adj timing 7* at idle will do fine and then it should start 3rd adjust carb if it wont idle and run without pinging you have other problems if that wont get you back on the road you know eddie can fix it or i can fix it for free let me know mike it will only take about five minnutes to figure it out and i would be glad to help

reread what you wrote me here dipshit.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
jr built
Member Avatar
Advanced Member
[ *  *  * ]
eddie sets his @0 when cold i wonder how it runs :o
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
BAM
Member Avatar
Advanced Member
[ *  *  * ]
jr built
Nov 5 2006, 06:11 AM
eddie sets his @0 when cold i wonder how it runs :o

I don't think this guy is running chromoly pushrods assclown.]
race engines are a complete different world.
does eddie have hydraulic lifters? you know so much about it tell me the specs on the engine and show me why its dialed in at 00 clearance when cold???
or do you even know why???
go chase a frisbee and stop barking up this tree.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
jr built
Member Avatar
Advanced Member
[ *  *  * ]
dude you have no idea chromoly push rods do not expand stock ones do vw engines expand .002 to .006 per side depending on temp so if you have chromoly pushrods you can set em at or near 0 thats why you adj cold if you adj when hot guess what the engine shrinks back and then the valves are now tight hence adj valves when cold
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
ZetaBoards - Free Forum Hosting
Create a free forum in seconds.
Go to Next Page
« Previous Topic · Tech Talk · Next Topic »
Add Reply