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| Timing woes | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Oct 14 2006, 02:35 PM (2,034 Views) | |
| Mike Ritchey | Oct 14 2006, 02:35 PM Post #1 |
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Permanoob
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It seems that my car is drifting out of time again and causing me problems when starting. I don't know how it is doing it as the distributor seems to be tight. Anywayz ... last time I just guessed on where to put the distributor, this time I want to do it right. I have a vacuum advance distributor, a 1600cc single port engine and below are pictures of my notches. Where should I put the notches for static timing? The pic is kind of blurry but I have two notches, one of which is lined up with the split in the case. There is also a paint mark but I don't know what it is referring to. According to the idiot book, the notches are 7.5* and 10*BTDC. I assume the paint mark was put at 0*. I can't find my engine code. I think it is under the manifold and it is probably coated with a layer of gunk. I got it from GEX a little over a year ago.
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| vwracerdave | Oct 15 2006, 05:36 PM Post #2 |
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Advanced Member
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Red mark with notch should be TDC, and other 2 should be 7.5* and 10* BTDC Get the number off your distributor and go here to find the correct timming for your engine. http://www.oldvolkshome.com/ovhignbo.htm David |
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| BAM | Oct 15 2006, 05:38 PM Post #3 |
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when you have points timing changes as the point lobe wears. use bosch points the lobe doesn't wear as fast as that plastic borg warner and napa crap. also get dielectric grease to lube the distributor cam with. other than that I wouldn't recomend static timing if you have been having problems. also for engine life its always best to time by total advance not idle. especially with old distributors. but if you must static time it go for the 7.5 btdc. |
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| Mike Ritchey | Oct 15 2006, 07:59 PM Post #4 |
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Permanoob
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At 0* and 7.5*, the car runs fine but won't start unless I roll it down the driveway. At 10*, it will start if it is warm but not when it is cold. I found the number ZV/PAU 4R5 on the distributor and on the site you mentioned. It suggests 10* but I will have to advance it further just to get it to start when it is cold. The points are pretty new and I adjusted them yesterday to .016. I got it adjusted now to about 15*BTDC. It isn't knocking at all but it seems to have lost some power on the low end. We'll see how it starts in the morning when it is cold. Is it possible that the distributor itself is just past it's prime and needs to be replaced? |
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| vwracerdave | Oct 16 2006, 01:29 AM Post #5 |
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Any 40 year pld part can wear out. You could barrow a dist from somebody and see how your engine reacts. |
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| Mike Ritchey | Oct 16 2006, 01:52 PM Post #6 |
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Permanoob
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It started just fine this morning with the 15* setting. If it isn't knocking, will it be okay till I get around to replacing it? I still want to get my spare engine case over to Eddie to see if it can be built into a nice engine. Just gotta wait a little more on the money. |
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| vdubjim | Oct 16 2006, 02:17 PM Post #7 |
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maybe need some clarification here, what is "knocking" ?
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| Mr. Loaf | Oct 28 2006, 12:09 PM Post #8 |
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Mikeystuff
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15 degrees sounds to be to far advanced on your timing and you could be over heating your engine. Are you sure that you have the right crank pulley for your engine? Have you tried this: Take out #1 plug and put a pencil in the plug hole, eraser end first. Turn your engine by hand until the pencil comes out to it's highest point. Look at your timing notches. The one that lines up with the split in the case is TDC. 7.5 sould be about 3/4 of an inch to the right of that mark. If you do not have a timing light you should buy one. Static timing will get you in the ball park but your timing will not be "tuned" that way. Also, do you have a choke on your carb and is it working properly? Sounds to me like you are using your timing to compensate for an improperly adjusted choke. |
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| Mike Ritchey | Oct 30 2006, 01:14 PM Post #9 |
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Permanoob
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I don't know if it is knocking or pinging or whatever but it is when the engine is warm and pulling up a hill, it would make this sound when trying to accelerate. Higher octane fuel helped a bit and hot temperatures made it worse. It seems to be under control now, though. The choke does seem to be working correctly ... if I step on the gas pedal and release before starting when it is cold, it moves the valve in the carb to close off the air supply somewhat and then releases it after the ignition is turned on for a bit. |
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| vdubjim | Oct 30 2006, 10:16 PM Post #10 |
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that is pinging, try higher octane fuel AND/OR turn down the timing a bit. |
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| jr built | Oct 31 2006, 02:56 PM Post #11 |
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if its hard to start you may need to adjust the valves |
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| jr built | Oct 31 2006, 03:33 PM Post #12 |
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5* wont make much difference either way. it sounds like a compression issue or carb problem |
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| vdubjim | Nov 1 2006, 02:43 AM Post #13 |
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id have to disagree at least for pinging. ive had many cars that ping at full advance being lugged up a hill, backed the distributer off just a touch, and no more pings. |
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| jr built | Nov 1 2006, 03:02 AM Post #14 |
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thats true jim but he said that he had to advance the timing to 15* deg before it would start look^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ every thing ive read so far sounds like carb or most likely low compression rather tight valves or just worn out thats my bet let me know what it is |
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| BAM | Nov 4 2006, 12:09 AM Post #15 |
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he said it turns over slow. that makes it hard to start. timing is too advanced. if the valves were tight it would turn over fast and not start. |
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