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Big end shells
Topic Started: Jan 20 2011, 01:50 AM (466 Views)
priceygtir
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Rolling
I've got a rattle that seems to be coming from the bottom end, my plan of attack is to get the sump off and change the big end shells.
Could any one point me in the right direction of where I could get these and I've also been told that the could be +5 or +10 it all depends on weather the crank has been ground to suit??????????


Input please :)
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EvilDes
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gay dogger

Oh yes indeed. I needed to get some ACL Race bearings for mine, and the cheapest place by far (BY FAR!!) is Nevlock in Coventry. Telephone number is 02476450777.

I got main bearings, big end bearings, and thrust washers for £108! On Ebay the mains on their own are like £90.

And yeah, there are different sizes. Standard is for standard crank obviously, then there's 0.25mm oversized and 0.5mm oversized I think. This depends on how much your crank will need ground off. Some places use imperial sizes though but I only know what it is in metric.

Obviously if your crank needs grinding is a gearbox off job to get it out.
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priceygtir
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EvilDes
Jan 20 2011, 02:17 AM
Oh yes indeed. I needed to get some ACL Race bearings for mine, and the cheapest place by far (BY FAR!!) is Nevlock in Coventry. Telephone number is 02476450777.

I got main bearings, big end bearings, and thrust washers for £108! On Ebay the mains on their own are like £90.

And yeah, there are different sizes. Standard is for standard crank obviously, then there's 0.25mm oversized and 0.5mm oversized I think. This depends on how much your crank will need ground off. Some places use imperial sizes though but I only know what it is in metric.

Obviously if your crank needs grinding is a gearbox off job to get it out.
Thanks alot buddy ive phoned them they have got them in stock :puke: so hopefuly get them friday.

Im guessing ive got to run minneral for a few hundred miles???????

And also could you possible give me the torque settings? :P
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EvilDes
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gay dogger

:lol: dont ask for much do ya! If nobody else finds them I'll get them for you in the morning, I'm on the phone at the mo, wont be on the laptop tonight.

and yeah, mineral oil will help bed them in. I get mine from Midwest :)
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priceygtir
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Ok bud that would be good :D I plan on getting 1 out tomorrow to see if its plus or standard then go and get the new 1s on friday I'm hoping it won't take long but like anything mechanical it can be unpredictable lol but if no 1 posts up by tomorrow night I would much appreciate those torque settings :p
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EvilDes
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gay dogger

Yeah dont worry I'll get them for you :)

I'm surprised I can't remember them off the top of my head but I done so many different things with different torques when I was building my engine I've got loads of numbers flying around my head :lol:
Oh, have you had your sump off before? There's a couple of hidden nuts to get off, behind a plastic cover on the gearbox side, and dont forget the bolts inside the sump once you've taken the lower sump and baffle plate off ;)
Edited by EvilDes, Jan 20 2011, 08:40 AM.
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priceygtir
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EvilDes
Jan 20 2011, 08:37 AM
Yeah dont worry I'll get them for you :)

I'm surprised I can't remember them off the top of my head but I done so many different things with different torques when I was building my engine I've got loads of numbers flying around my head :lol:
Oh, have you had your sump off before? There's a couple of hidden nuts to get off, behind a plastic cover on the gearbox side, and dont forget the bolts inside the sump once you've taken the lower sump and baffle plate off ;)
No i havent is there anything to worry about???

And the bolts inside are those $ an oil pick up or something???
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EvilDes
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gay dogger

Torque settings for the rod caps are: step 1 14-15 lb's (19 - 20 Nm), and then step 2 34-38 lb's (46 - 51 Nm).

And nothing to worry about no, just a couple of things you need to be aware of otherwise you'll be trying to force your sump off and not realising why it won't come off :lol:

First of all, drain your oil and remove your lower sump. You'll then see your oil pickup/strainer and a baffle plate:
Posted Image

Take this baffle plate off and keep it safe and clean (and it's bolts). You'll then see the inner bolts you need to undo for the sump to come off the block:
Posted Image

Start undoing all the bolts you can see on the outside of the sump, and when you're done with those, see the plastic cover here on the gearbox side of the sump? Take that off and there's 2 little nuts that hold the sump in which will need to come off. Most people don't realise they're there and try and force the sump off.
Posted Image

Don't forget both of these sumps are held on with instant gasket, so you'll need some of that so you can put it all back together.
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priceygtir
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Rolling
Right then I've got shells 1 and 4 out and they are std's so ill go and get those tomorrow mow I had to take the main baring carrier of to get access to the rod's I'm going to be cheeky once again and ask 4 those torque settings too :p ?? Lol
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EvilDes
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gay dogger

Blimey! :lol:

Tighten the bolts from the middle outwards. Middle 2, then the 2 to the left of those, then the 2 to the right of the middle 2. Then the far left 2 (engine front side), and the far right to. Tighten them all to 38-44 Nm first, then tighten them to 84-114 Nm after, working middle out again.
In fact, here's a pic to make it easier...

Posted Image
Edited by EvilDes, Jan 21 2011, 09:10 PM.
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Stu
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What was the state of the shells when you removed them?
It will be a waiste of time if you just replace them and your crank is scored.
You will end up doing it all over again :(

I think you said it had only just started, so hopefully the crank is fine.

Good to here you getting on with the work and not just breaking the car or selling it for spaes or repair ;)
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