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Computer down again...
Topic Started: Jan 13 2010, 05:45 PM (771 Views)
Walker
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The Local Hobo
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Graphics cards go up to GDDR5, RAM is DDR3 right now.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...2-857-_-Product
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Walker
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The Local Hobo
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Woot, got the processor and harddrive today. Installed both, shat my pants while flashing my bios to recognize the new processor because it blackscreened on the first reboot. Had to remove CMOS battery and drain all power and then reboot, worked perfect afterward. The processor is amazing, so is the harddrive. Installing things and moving files is lightning fast regardless of how large the file, and I've been able to max out graphics at 1920x1200 on every game of mine, each game gaining anywhere from 80 to 200 fps increase. Can't wait to see what the new graphics card does to my benchmarks now when I get it.
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Raikiri
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Walker
Jan 19 2010, 10:22 PM
Woot, got the processor and harddrive today. Installed both, shat my pants while flashing my bios to recognize the new processor because it blackscreened on the first reboot. Had to remove CMOS battery and drain all power and then reboot, worked perfect afterward. The processor is amazing, so is the harddrive. Installing things and moving files is lightning fast regardless of how large the file, and I've been able to max out graphics at 1920x1200 on every game of mine, each game gaining anywhere from 80 to 200 fps increase. Can't wait to see what the new graphics card does to my benchmarks now when I get it.

you could have avoided taking the battery out by removing the CMOS jumper to clear.. the alternative (if no jumper is installed) is shorting the pins manually. Both are much easier and safer than removing that battery @_@

oils from your fingerprints can mess things up. yes, i've seen it happen
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Walker
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The Local Hobo
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I used plastic tweezers. I never touch things directly with skin in my PC so i dont transfer static shock and short it out. I'm super staticy. All my tools have rubber handles and for precision I use the tweezers, if I must touch it I war rubber gloves with a powder coat.
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Raikiri
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You probably should (*edit*)not use rubber gripped tools and here's why:

While the rubber ensures that you aren't at the same potential as the tool (meaning any static built up on you isnt transferred to the tool and then on to the parts), the tools may or may not be at a different potential than the parts they are about to touch... you have no way of knowing AND you wouldnt be able to feel any discharge. The absolute best way is to ground yourself to the computer case. handle everything in their static bags until you're ready to take them out (make sure you're grounded at that point before you open them).

grounding yourself to the case AND using rubber tools wont work because the rubber grip keeps you from grounding the tool to your hand (and the case)...

But in any case I'm sure you've done this a few times. Just thought I'd give you a little better idea of whats happening with those. If you've had no problems before, then by all means continue.

just dont use those magnetic-tipped screwdrivers =P
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Walker
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Ha, my ex brother-in-law used a magnetic tip on a family computer when the processor went out and wow was that a bad idea. It's not a rubber rubber like on shoes, its the hard plastic rubbery stuff you find on electrical equipment. I use them when I do electrical wiring and speaker wiring and such. Not too eager to ground myself to the case cuz the bastard shocks me with actual electricity whenever its plugged in. Guessing something inside of it is rubbing but I'm not about to rip it apart and find where.
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Raikiri
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Walker
Jan 20 2010, 12:43 PM
Ha, my ex brother-in-law used a magnetic tip on a family computer when the processor went out and wow was that a bad idea. It's not a rubber rubber like on shoes, its the hard plastic rubbery stuff you find on electrical equipment. I use them when I do electrical wiring and speaker wiring and such. Not too eager to ground myself to the case cuz the bastard shocks me with actual electricity whenever its plugged in. Guessing something inside of it is rubbing but I'm not about to rip it apart and find where.

right. working with live electricity is a bad idea if you're grounded to it. If you're grounded to the case it won't shock you because there's no potential for the electricity to flow across. Don't ground yourself to the power supply.. duh.

the case itself is perfectly fine and the point is to have everything at the same potential so no undetected shocks happen. it only takes a few microvolts to fry a CPU.
If you get actual electric shocks from touching the case, I would recommend you don't install anything into it because obviously the power is shorting to the case at which point it is also flowing through your hard-drives, peripheral cards (Gfx cards) and such. This is bad, and also unlikely.

Wear a wrist strap.
Its $3.00 well spent.
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Walker
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The Local Hobo
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I know what you meant by grounding, just saying if I did transfer any static into it while grounding myself I didn't want to harm anything since somewhere metal is touching.

I think I figured out what the issue was, as it actually WAS shocking me like one of those prank shocker pens. Prior to reinstalling the heatsink, the bracket behind the mobo is connects to was loose and rubbing the case. Not sure if that's where it was coming from but it seems to have stopped now for the most part.
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Walker
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Super excited. Just ordered my HD5850

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16814150442

Gonna have one beast of a computer now.
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Walker
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This graphics card is epic win. Every source engine game I own now runs at well over 250 fps completely maxed out at 1920x1200. Q3 engine games are off the charts. Crysis runs with everything set to Very High at the same resolution at 40+ fps. Smooth as silk. Looking forward to some DX11 games for streaming detail tessellation.
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